His fans might boggle at such undue modesty, of a kind that's notably rare in his profession. But the 41-year-old Australian has never conformed to cheffing stereotype. Though he is the son of a butcher, he grew up in a decidedly un-foodie household – "roast dinner six nights a week then mixed grill on the one night off". It was only later, as a Sydney art student, that he caught the cooking bug, after taking on a waiting job in a French café. Then, in 1993, aged just 22, he opened his first Bills restaurant, in Sydney's bohemian Darlinghurst suburb – an endeavour that paid off handsomely: the Bills empire now extends to three branches in Sydney and three in Japan.
So how did this entirely self-taught whiz-kid become one of Australia's most venerable culinary exports? Some divine breakfasts, for one: his scrambled eggs are the stuff of legend ("as gentle as the breath of an angel", in the words of The New York Times). But beyond that, it is his style of cooking, as clean and unfussy in flavour as it is rich and diverse in influence – from Asian to Mediterranean to Middle Eastern. "Sydney has such a relaxed feel – like a cross between a resort and a city – and that is a definite influence on me," he says. "I like my cooking to be light, bright, and to take you away."
Relaxation is a central tenet of the Granger culinary philosophy: that's why his establishments are fêted for their informal, convivial atmosphere and why he'd much rather eat "good, simple food at someone's mother's house than have a fancy fine-dining meal. When I was young, my family didn't sit down together and eat. But at school I had Jewish, Greek and Chinese friends, and I remember going to their houses and being inspired by the way meals would be a celebration, with plates moving around and energy."
Not one to sit still himself, Granger relocated to London in 2009 – a move prompted by Britain's "amazing food community... there's just so much going on". And, if you like what you see here, then you can rejoice at the news that he's set to open a restaurant in west London in November. "It will be a simple café – for me, food is about sharing time with loved ones and opening yourself up to joy."
To help you recreate some of that joy at home, overleaf Bill settles into his engagement as The New Review's new food writer with four stunning recipes inspired by his recent holidays...
Whenever I come back from a balmy holiday in the Med I'm always inspired by the simple, sunny flavours you find there, and loath to give up such a healthy and delicious way of eating. In the same way you want your tan to last as long as possible, I want those zesty flavours of lemon, olives and fresh herbs to keep reminding me of lazy days with not much to think about apart from the next meal. This summer, Greece is my inspiration and I'm not straying far from the classics; I love the saltiness of feta crumbled over a salad, the scent of lamb roasting in the oven and the appeal of flatbread pizza with a cold glass of white wine (preferably not retsina). It's happy holiday food and so easy to carry on making at home after the sun has gone down on your summer break.
Orzo, feta and roasted pepper salad
Served as a substantial side with grilled meat or fish, this salad is best made with the rice-like pasta orzo and is equally good as a vegetarian main course. Best eaten outside (weather permitting...)
Serves 4
2 yellow peppers
2 red peppers
500g/1lb orzo
1 red chilli, de-seeded if desired, finely diced
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 tsp paprika
100ml/3 fl oz extra-virgin olive oil
Grated zest of 1 lemon and 1 tbsp lemon juice
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
To serve
Large handful flat-leaf parsley leaves
200g/7oz feta, sliced/crumbled
Heat your oven to 220C/425F/Gas 7 then place the peppers on a small baking tray and cook in the oven for 20 minutes, turning halfway through, until dark and blistered. Remove from the oven and place in a bowl. Cover immediately with cling film or another plate to allow the peppers to steam.
While the peppers are steaming, cook the orzo according to the manufacturer's instructions until al dente. Meanwhile, heat the chilli, garlic, paprika, lemon zest and olive oil in a small saucepan over a medium heat for 2-3 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the lemon juice and season to taste.
Drain the orzo, arrange on a serving dish, pour over the dressing and toss to combine. Slip the skins off the peppers, and remove their core and seeds. Try not to rinse them. Tear or cut into strips and scatter over the orzo. Top with parsley leaves and feta, and serve.
Flatbread with red onion and chard
The perfect thing to serve with drinks or to grab for lunch on the go, this is basically a pared-down Mediterranean pizza so, in terms of toppings, anything goes. It cooks well on a barbecue – just in case you haven't had that wood-fired pizza oven installed yet.
Serves 4
400g/13oz plain flour
2 tsp sea salt
1 tsp instant yeast
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
330ml/11fl oz lukewarm water
2 red onions, cut into thin half-moons
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 tbsp light brown sugar
tsp ground cumin
2 tbsp balsamic vinegar
250g/8oz chard leaves, shredded
To serve
150g/5oz feta, crumbled
Dried chilli flakes
Freshly ground black pepper
Sift the flour and salt into a large bowl and make a well in the centre. Stir the yeast and olive oil into the lukewarm water and pour into the well. Mix to form a soft but firm dough, then transfer it to a lightly floured surface and knead for about 5 minutes until smooth and elastic. Put it in a lightly oiled bowl, cover with cling film and leave to rise in a warm place for 45 minutes.
Preheat your oven to 220C/400F/ Gas 6 then knock back the dough by punching it with your fist. Divide it into 4 even balls and roll each ball into large long ovals about 3mm-4mm thick. Place on an oiled baking sheet.
Pour the oil into a frying pan and fry the onions over a medium-high heat for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Reduce the heat to low and gently cook until golden, soft and caramelised. Add the sugar, cumin and balsamic vinegar and allow to reduce, stirring, for 2-3 minutes. Add the chard and season to taste. Remove from the heat and spread evenly over the flatbreads.
Bake the flatbreads in the hot oven for 20 minutes. Once baked, top with the feta, season with dried chilli and pepper, and serve immediately.
Baked lamb racks with potatoes, tomatoes, olives and tzatziki
Returning from holiday at the end of the summer doesn't necessarily mean going back to wintry roasts straight away, and this one-dish lamb is satisfying enough to keep cooler evenings at bay.
Serves 4
500g/1lb new potatoes, thickly sliced
4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
Leaves from 1 sprig rosemary
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 tsp sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
4 three-point lamb racks
1 lemon, sliced
200g/7oz vine cherry tomatoes
100g/3 oz green olives, roughly torn
For the tzatziki
500ml/17fl oz yoghurt
2 garlic cloves, crushed
cucumber, peeled, seeded and diced
Sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Squeeze lemon juice
Mint leaves, roughly torn
Heat your oven to 220C/425F/Gas 7 then place the potatoes and 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large baking tray and bake for 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, crush the rosemary, garlic and salt with a mortar and pestle until a paste forms. Stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil and season with pepper. Rub over the lamb racks, add the lemon slices, and marinate for 10 minutes or longer.
Remove the potatoes from the oven, and place the lamb racks in a baking tray. Cook for 20-25 minutes before removing the lamb from the tray and placing somewhere warm, loosely covered in foil, to rest for 15 minutes. Now add the tomatoes and olives to the potatoes and cook for 10-15 minutes longer.
Meanwhile, make the tzatziki by simply placing all the ingredients in a bowl and mixing together gently.
Remove the potatoes from the oven and serve with the lamb, sliced into cutlets, with tzatziki alongside.
Chilli garlic chicken with skordalia
By butterflying the chicken – cutting it down one side of the backbone, flattening it out and slashing the flesh – you'll let the flavours really penetrate and it will cook in half the time. To accompany it I've made my own version of the classic thick Greek sauce skordalia.
Serves 4
1 fresh chilli
1 tsp dried chilli flakes
1 garlic clove, crushed
60ml/2 fl oz extra-virgin olive oil
1 kg/3lb chicken, butterflied
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the skordalia
500g/1lb potatoes, peeled
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, lightly crushed
150ml/¼ pint soured cream
To serve
Watercress
Lemon wedges
Place the fresh and dried chilli, garlic and olive oil in a bowl and mix to combine. Slash the chicken legs and breast, and rub the marinade all over the chicken and into the slashes. Place in a bowl, cover, refrigerate and marinate for a half-hour or until ready to cook.
Heat your oven to 200C/400F/Gas 6 then season the chicken liberally and place in a baking dish. Bake until golden and cooked through – this will take about 35-40 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside in a warm place for 10-15 minutes to rest.
Meanwhile, make the skordalia. Place the potatoes in a large saucepan of cold water. Place over a high heat and boil until tender when pierced with a knife (about 20 minutes). Drain and place back in the empty saucepan over a low heat for a minute or so to remove excess water. Remove from the heat and place the potatoes in a food processor with the olive oil, garlic, soured cream, salt and pepper. Pulse until smooth.
Cut the chicken halves into quarters, and serve alongside the skordalia, watercress and a wedge of lemon.
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