My Round: A final toast to the world's best wine blogs

It astonishes me to realise that I started writing this column nearly 10 years ago. And I've been reflecting on changes in the world of alcohol over that time, for reasons that will become apparent towards the end of this column. One of the most dramatic has been the rise of the internet, which has changed the way drinks are advertised, marketed and written about. Of course, the drinks biz is hardly alone in having been shaken up by the net. But it's seen some wildly uneven efforts in online activity.

Of the recent developments in the online drinks world, the most uneven is the rise of the blog. That word didn't even exist 10 years ago, but now it seems that just about everyone who owns a computer thinks the world is crying out to read about his or her travels, pets, family news or views on current events. Or wine. Some are fascinating, most are drivel - and I'm afraid that category includes much of what's published on the subject of wine and alcoholic beverages.

It gives me no pleasure to say this, as I would much rather see the democracy of the net turned to good use. But so far it hasn't happened with wine. Too many blogs are just a succession of tastings and tasting notes. And too many are written by people who - there is no nice way to say this - don't know very much about the subject. One blogger, who shall remain nameless, writes of something or other: "A balanced refreshing wine. Not too dry with a fruity nose. Drank with salmon."

Hmm. And I'm sorry to say that hours of surfing have turned up little else on other amateur blogs that's worth following. Many of the sites also have a problem in common with much of what's written on the internet: no editors and no limit on word count. In cyberspace, it seems, no one can hear you scream "Enough! Shut up, please!"

There are good things out there, of course. An "agglomerator" of wine blogs - one that harvests latest postings from everywhere - has recently launched under the name www.preview. vinolin.com. It is worth a look if you want to get a sampling. There are sometimes good things on www.wellfed.net/ winesediments, put together by a like-minded international group. And there are interesting things to be found at www.vinography.com too, though so much of it is based on activities in the area around San Francisco that many UK readers will struggle to find it useful. The blog of Eric Asimov (www.thepour.blogs.nytimes. com), who writes about wine for The New York Times, is also often interesting.

The best wine blogger, for my money, is the UK's own Jamie Goode, at www.wine anorak.com/blog. Goode combines technical expertise with vivid accounts of his travels and a nice bit of personal history besides - though he doesn't overdo his own presence in his writing, as so many bloggers do.

And Jancis Robinson's www.jancisrobinson.com, though it isn't officially a blog, is updated so regularly (when does she sleep?) that it might as well be. Though you will have to pay £69 a year to get access to the full site.

I know I am not going to join the ranks of the wine bloggers when I depart these pages. And that is happening as of this column, which is my last. My recommendations for the week affirm one thing I have grown increasingly convinced of over the past decade: that French wine is the best on Earth. I am grateful for the opportunity the column has given me to learn about the drinkable world, not just wine but spirits, beer, coffee, tea, water, and all the rest of it. It's a privilege to have been doing this for 10 years, and I hope we will meet again. But I doubt it will be in the blogosphere. s

Three fine French wines

Le Cas 2005, Mas de la Conscience, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault (£10.95, Berry Bros & Rudd, tel: 0870 900 4300, www.bbr.com) One-hundred-per cent Carignan, abundant spice and rich earthiness.

Adnams Selection White Burgundy, Cuvée Paul Talmard (£6.99, tel: 01502 727 222, www.adnamswines.co.uk) Good white Burgundy needn't cost a fortune when it's carefully sourced. This Mâconnais has crisp, focused, sprightly Chardonnay character.

Sauvignon Gris 2005, Domaine de la Saulzaie, Vin de Pays du Jardin de la France (£7.99, £6.99 if you buy two, Majestic) One of my favourite wines of the past year; trust me, you'll love it.