My Round: Cloudy judgement

Feel free to splash out on special wines - just make sure you don't put cult status in front of common sense

Yes, it's that time of year again: time to chuckle over the prices that some people are willing to pay for Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc. While few New Zealand Sauvignons cost more than around £13, Cloudy Bay fetches prices that roughly double that: (£227.95 per dozen from Seckford Wines, tel: 01394 446 643, for instance, with an £11.75 delivery charge per consignment). Just one bottle will set you back £26 at Berry Bros & Rudd (tel: 08709 004 300, www.bbr.com).

And will your money be well spent? Ha! Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc is sometimes an outstandingly good example of New Zealand's best-known grape variety. But the prices charged for it long ago lost all relation to the wine's intrinsic merits.

Extraordinary quality in its early years made possible one of the canniest marketing efforts in wine history, creating the perception that it is made in small quantities when it is not. It has become a cult wine. And there are suckers with the money and desire to buy it. God bless 'em. But give me either of the two New Zealand alternatives to the right, or the odd man out which just happens to be a lovely, interesting wine at a fraction of the price.

What does this whole idea of "cult" wines mean? Well, it means something having to do with scarcity, and if you want truly scarce then you can look at the boutique wineries of California, principally of the Napa valley. Here a handful of wineries make stuff in quantities so small, and with demand so high, they have waiting lists to get on the waiting lists.

As it happens, some of these wines are exceptional. Those from Grace Family Vineyards, Araujo and Harlan are particularly good - Bordeaux-type blends of world-class quality. Uvine.com, the excellent online wine exchange (average price paid is £225 a case), is currently offering wines from three of the cultists, and the prices make Cloudy Bay look like a can of lager and a packet of crisps.

Screaming Eagle Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, the cultiest of the cults, is selling for £3,000 for a three-bottle case. I've never tasted it, but I have tasted wines from Colgin, and they're heady stuff, selling at Uvine for £4,200 a case of 12. Please note that these prices do not include shipping. Christopher Burr, head of Uvine, notes wryly that, "the wines are not exactly running out the door".

I'm all in favour of splashing out from time to time on an exceptional bottle. Life's too short not to. And if you ever spend £40 to £50 a head on a meal you've forgotten about the next day, splashing out on wine should rank high on your list of consuming priorities.

For £26, you can buy very good and exceptional bottles from France, Italy, Austria and Germany. To take just three examples: £26.45 will buy a bottle of Puligny-Montrachet 2001, Etienne Sauzet, from Lay & Wheeler (tel: 01206 764 446, www.laywheeler.com); an even £26 will buy the Châteauneuf du Pape 2001 of Le Vieux Donjon from Yapp Brothers (tel: 01747 860 423, www.yapp.co.uk); for £20 to £28, you can pick from most of the Riesling and Grüner Veltliner from the Wachau valley in Austria, one of the world's great wine regions (check out Noel Young, www.nywines.co.uk, tel: 01223 844 744).

If you want to creep up even a little bit in the direction of those Napa valley wünderkinder, £50 or £60 will gain you access to most of the world's best wine. Great Burgundy and claret, both hugely expensive areas, are within your reach here. Or you can spend £26 on a bottle of Cloudy Bay, a perfectly good wine that happens to sell for far more than it's really worth. It's your choice.

Top corks: Three clear alternatives

Blind River Sauvignon Blanc 2003, Marlborough £9.99, Oddbins Made in similar fashion to Cloudy Bay, with barrel fermentation adding complexity to the tinned pea and tropical fruit flavours

Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc Wairau Valley 2003 £10-11, widely available From this unimpeachable producer, a veritable fruit salad of tropical, melony and vivacious gooseberry flavours

Les Grandes Vignes du Roy 2003, Côtes- du-Rhône £7.75, Adnams (tel: 01502 727 222) Odd wine out. Great example of old world know-how. Fresh but deep

Suggested Topics
Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebooks
ebookA delicious collection of 50 meaty main courses
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Food & Drink

    Recruitment Genius: Casual Visitor Experience Assistants

    £7 per hour: Recruitment Genius: To work within the Visitor Experience Departm...

    Recruitment Genius: Web Developer - Junior / Mid Weight

    £15000 - £25000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: To support their continued grow...

    Recruitment Genius: Transportation Contracting Manager

    £33000 - £38000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: A global player and world leade...

    Recruitment Genius: Hotel and Spa Duty Manager

    £18000 - £24000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: If you are friendly, sociable, ...

    Day In a Page

    Isis in Syria: Influential tribal leaders hold secret talks with Western powers and Gulf states over possibility of mobilising against militants

    Tribal gathering

    Influential clans in Syria have held secret talks with Western powers and Gulf states over the possibility of mobilising against Isis. But they are determined not to be pitted against each other
    Gaza, a year on from Operation Protective Edge: A growing population and a compromised and depleted aquifer leaves water in scarce supply for Palestinians

    Gaza, a year on from Operation Protective Edge

    A growing population and a compromised and depleted aquifer leaves water in scarce supply for Palestinians
    10 best trays

    Get carried away with 10 best trays

    Serve with ceremony on a tray chic carrier
    Greece debt crisis: EU 'family' needs to forgive rather than punish an impoverished state

    EU 'family' needs to forgive rather than punish an impoverished state

    An outbreak of malaria in Greece four years ago helps us understand the crisis, says Robert Fisk
    Gaza, a year on from Operation Protective Edge: The traumatised kibbutz on Israel's front line, still recovering from last summer's war with Hamas

    Gaza, a year on from Operation Protective Edge

    The traumatised kibbutz on Israel's front line, still recovering from last summer's war with Hamas
    How to survive electrical storms: What are the chances of being hit by lightning?

    Heavy weather

    What are the chances of being hit by lightning?
    World Bodypainting Festival 2015: Bizarre and brilliant photos celebrate 'the body as art'

    World Bodypainting Festival 2015

    Bizarre and brilliant photos celebrate 'the body as art'
    alt-j: A private jet, a Mercury Prize and Latitude headliners

    Don't call us nerds

    Craig Mclean meets alt-j - the math-folk act who are flying high
    How to find gold: The Californian badlands, digging out crevasses and sifting sludge

    How to find gold

    Steve Boggan finds himself in the Californian badlands, digging out crevasses and sifting sludge
    Singing accents: From Herman's Hermits and David Bowie to Alesha Dixon

    Not born in the USA

    Lay off Alesha Dixon: songs sound better in US accents, even our national anthem
    10 best balsamic vinegars

    10 best balsamic vinegars

    Drizzle it over salad, enjoy it with ciabatta, marinate vegetables, or use it to add depth to a sauce - this versatile staple is a cook's best friend
    Wimbledon 2015: Brief glimpses of the old Venus but Williams sisters' epic wars belong to history

    Brief glimpses of the old Venus but Williams sisters' epic wars belong to history

    Serena dispatched her elder sister 6-4, 6-3 in eight minutes more than an hour
    Greece says 'No': A night of huge celebrations in Athens as voters decisively back Tsipras and his anti-austerity stance in historic referendum

    Greece referendum

    Greeks say 'No' to austerity and plunge Europe into crisis
    Ten years after the 7/7 terror attacks, is Britain an altered state?

    7/7 bombings anniversary

    Ten years after the terror attacks, is Britain an altered state?
    Beautiful evening dresses are some of the loveliest Donatella has created

    Versace haute couture review

    Beautiful evening dresses are some of the loveliest Donatella has ever created