On The Menu: 42°Raw lasagne; Standard Hotel; The Mall Tavern; Greenhalgh's crumpet loaf

 

This week I've been eating... raw lasagne

Raw foodism has never really flown here. Maybe it's the weather – not quite Cali – or maybe because it seems a little too much the province of health freaks or the more belligerent wing of the animal-rights movements.

Of course, there have been restaurants dedicated to uncooked, unprocessed organic food before, London's Saf restaurant being but one – but the attraction there was the hi-tech, high-falutin cooking. Bold move then, for 42°Raw to open a daytime restaurant at the Royal Academy and serve frills-free raw food. And yet it works.

Pick of the day was the lasagne, (£8) which is devoid of pasta, marinated courgette playing that role, with a thick cream made of cashews and spiky sun-dried tomatoes as a layered filling. It is an odd, dense approximation of its Italian relative but fresh and with electric flavours. Beats a post-Summer Exhibition sandwich.

42raw.co.uk

Bigger, better?

It's an all-too-familiar tale. A small-time English icon makes it big amongst the American big boys – and loses itself along the way. I am, of course, talking of the despoliation of the custard cream and its biscuit barrel mate, the bourbon. Taken up and sold by a world-straddling coffee chain, those self-same biscuits have been enlarged to obese proportions, which now sees them resembling small cakes rather than auntie's favourite mid-afternoon nibble. It's like eating a whole packet in a sitting. Bigger is certainly not better when it comes to biccies.

Standard fare

A couple of months back on a trip to New York, I took a yellow taxi across Brooklyn Bridge, from my hotel in Williamsburg to south Manhattan and Andre Balaz's Standard Hotel for brunch. It was in the grand style of NYC dining – big, brash and quite delicious. Now the hotel's new southern Mediterranean restaurant, which is in the plaza in front of the hotel, is making waves among the city's foodies. If you're in town, it'll be worth a visit.

standardhotels.com

Smashing!

The Eton Tidy dessert that chef Jesse Dunford Wood is now serving in his west London joint, The Mall Tavern, is a strange fish. It is what one might, if one was being pompous, call a post-modern take on the traditional messy dessert that began life as a sweetener for the boys at Slough's most august educational establishment. But if I'm being honest, my interest isn't intellectual, it's a bit more visceral – I just like being able to smash the meringues into the large scoop of elderflower ice cream and gooseberries it comes with. It's a simple pleasure, but a goody.

£5.50, themalltavern.com

Half baked?

You may have thought that little circle of joy, the crumpet, needed no improvement. But at Greenhalgh's, the chain of bakeries in the north of England, they've obviously decided to move it on a little – with a crumpet loaf. Abomination? Or delight? Only one way to find out....

£1.30, greenhalghs.com

Independent Comment
blog comments powered by Disqus
News in pictures
World news in pictures
Life & Style blogs

Your chance to live in Winnie the Pooh’s home

Plus London's buy-to-let hotspots and a new property portal

How can the mortgage market recovery be helped?

Guest post by Richard Sexton, business development director of e.surv chartered surveyors

Where do most millionaires live in the UK?

Plus lateral thinking and living on London's waterways

       

ES Rentals

    Day In a Page

    James Pembroke: The man who's eaten everywhere

    The man who's eaten everywhere

    Few people know more about restaurants than James Pembroke, who only spent five mealtimes at home during his entire childhood.
    A Berliner in 1963 – but did John F Kennedy once admire Adolf Hitler?

    A Berliner in 1963 – but did John F Kennedy once admire Adolf Hitler?

    The young JFK praised 'superior' Nordic races during visits to Germany
    Banned Iranian director Mohammad Rasoulof to attend Cannes Film Festival 2013, his first public appearance since prison

    Banned Iranian director to attend Cannes Film Festival

    Mohammad Rasoulof to make his first public appearance since being imprisoned three years ago
    Seeing the larger picture: Inspiring images of space

    Seeing the larger picture: Inspiring images of space

    An exhibition explores images how photography has shaped astronomy
    Eat Spam and carry on: Wartime pamphlets could teach us a thing or two about healthy, thrifty eating

    Eat Spam and carry on

    Wartime pamphlets could teach us a thing or two about healthy, thrifty eating
    Facial hair: Cat beards and the purrrsuit of excellence

    Facial hair

    Cat beards and the purrrsuit of excellence
    The 10 Best salt and pepper sets

    The 10 Best salt and pepper sets

    Whether they're for everyday use or to make your dining table look just right, it's worth getting a stylish shaker...
    Ferran Soriano: Predicting success if Manchester City 'vision' is followed

    Ferran Soriano: Predicting success if Manchester City 'vision' is followed

    Chief executive says trophies will come if a 'core' of suitable players is in place
    Thomas Müller: We couldn't handle losing a Champions League Final again

    Thomas Müller: We couldn't handle losing a Champions League Final again

    The Bayern Munich forward tells Tim Rich his side have to shed chokers' tag after two recent final defeats
    Giro d'Italia: The Stelvio Pass - cycling's killer climb

    The Stelvio Pass - cycling's killer climb

    As the Giro d'Italia tackles the brutal climb, Simon Usborne takes on the snow and switchbacks – and soon realises what the fuss is about
    National archives: Edward VIII’s phone calls - and how MI5 bugged them

    Edward VIII’s phone calls - and how MI5 bugged them

    Newly unearthed papers reveal a shocking extra dimension to the constitutional crisis over monarch’s abdication
    Sent down at the Old Bailey: A tour of the world's most famous court

    Sent down at the Old Bailey

    A tour of the world's most famous court
    Hollywood's random acts of red-carpet kindness

    Hollywood's random acts of red-carpet kindness

    The Hangover actor Zach Galifianakis’s date for his movie premieres isn’t arm candy  – it’s his 87-year-old friend who he saved from homelessness
    British football scores an own goal

    British football scores an own goal

    Many managers barely survive a year in post. Martin Baker talks to experts who make a case for clubs using forensic business skills to find the best staff
    James Lawton: Sergio Garcia cracks as major fault line opens up again

    James Lawton

    Sergio Garcia cracks as major fault line opens up again