On The Menu: Saporitalia's gnocchi; Glenilen Farm's Handmade Country Butter; Vice's online cookery show; Bulldog gin; Nobu

 

This week I've been eating... Saporitalia's gnocchi

Saporitalia, the dinky Italian on London's Portobello Road, is just about the kindest restaurant I've ever rested my elbows in. My half hour lateness (yes, I know – but I plead the tube) and sweaty, gasp-punctured explanation, was greeted with... a glass of prosecco.

Sitting down they then brought some miniature bruschettas to the table. We then took frankly ages to decide what we wanted. Out came some zucchini fritti, which were blow-your-socks-off good, crispy, steaming and lovely. This hurried us – thoughts of bankruptcy courts and weeping children in mind.

I went for the gnocchi in tomato sauce with fior di latte (cow's mozzarella). It's a simple, unfussy dish – and they did it beautifully. The wood-fired stove made the cheese into little molten islets and the tomato sauce was pitched just nicely between sweet and earthy.

It was as hot as lava and I would have happily have eaten another. Go, but please, try not to be late.

What a spread

From Glenilen Farm in County Cork this Handmade Country Butter comes as a delightfully large pat, wrapped in greaseproof paper and tied with a piece of oh-so-rustic-looking string. It's not all presentation, though – it has a fabulously rich and creamy taste and is the ideal companion for a crusty loaf. The butter tastes so good, its producers claim, because its dairy cows are allowed to roam free on the banks of the river Ilen, enjoying its rich, nutritious grass. Lesser brands take note. Glenilen.com, £2.79 (250g)

Vice-like grip

Hipster manual Vice is a sprawling enterprise these days. As well as putting out the magazine and sending out correspondents to war zones, it's now started an online cookery show. Fronted by Joanna Fuertes-Knight, it's called Girl Eats Food, and is aimed at the "stupider, drunkenier end of home cuisine", which you can assume means 16-to 24-year-olds. The films have that annoying Nigella-esque hand close-up tic, but apart from that it's cool. Luther Vandross slider, anyone? Vice.com

Spirit level

Does the world need another small-batch gin? Especially one called Bulldog (British bulldog, geddit?) and dressed, bottle to base, in jet black. Every fibre in my body wants to say, "no, no, thanks, we're quite alright without it". But, actually, when you taste it, it's pretty decent, unusual even.

I'm not sure about the marketing bumf's claim that it's the "world's most mixable gin" but its flowery, liquorice tang, and all-round creaminess, makes it eminently drinkable. Just make sure you hide the bottle. £25, waitrose.com

Expensive taste

It's been a pricey week in food. First Tim Allen of Launceston Place produces a scotch egg for the Taste Festival which costs £500 and has a coat of gold. And now, to celebrate its 15th birthday, Nobu is offering a takeaway bento box made from Mr Nobu's favourite dishes. The cost? A cool £250. Has the Perrier gone to their heads, as Morrissey once sang?

s.muston@independent.co.uk

Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebooks
ebookA delicious collection of 50 meaty main courses
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Food & Drink

    Recruitment Genius: Casual Visitor Experience Assistants

    £7 per hour: Recruitment Genius: To work within the Visitor Experience Departm...

    Recruitment Genius: Web Developer - Junior / Mid Weight

    £15000 - £25000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: To support their continued grow...

    Recruitment Genius: Transportation Contracting Manager

    £33000 - £38000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: A global player and world leade...

    Recruitment Genius: Hotel and Spa Duty Manager

    £18000 - £24000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: If you are friendly, sociable, ...

    Day In a Page

    Isis in Syria: Influential tribal leaders hold secret talks with Western powers and Gulf states over possibility of mobilising against militants

    Tribal gathering

    Influential clans in Syria have held secret talks with Western powers and Gulf states over the possibility of mobilising against Isis. But they are determined not to be pitted against each other
    Gaza, a year on from Operation Protective Edge: A growing population and a compromised and depleted aquifer leaves water in scarce supply for Palestinians

    Gaza, a year on from Operation Protective Edge

    A growing population and a compromised and depleted aquifer leaves water in scarce supply for Palestinians
    Dozens of politicians, bureaucrats and businessmen linked to Indian bribery scandal die mysteriously

    Illnesses, car crashes and suicides

    Dozens of politicians, bureaucrats and businessmen linked to Indian bribery scandal die mysteriously
    Srebrenica 20 years after the genocide: Why the survivors need closure

    Bosnia's genocide, 20 years on

    No-one is admitting where the bodies are buried - literally and metaphorically
    How Comic-Con can make or break a movie: From Batman vs Superman to Star Wars: Episode VII

    Power of the geek Gods

    Each year at Comic-Con in San Diego, Hollywood bosses nervously present blockbusters to the hallowed crowd. It can make or break a movie
    What do strawberries and cream have to do with tennis?

    Perfect match

    What do strawberries and cream have to do with tennis?
    10 best trays

    Get carried away with 10 best trays

    Serve with ceremony on a tray chic carrier
    Wimbledon 2015: Team Murray firing on all cylinders for SW19 title assault

    Team Murray firing on all cylinders for title assault

    Coaches Amélie Mauresmo and Jonas Bjorkman aiming to make Scot Wimbledon champion again
    Wimbledon 2015: Nick Bollettieri - Vasek Pospisil must ignore tiredness and tell himself: I'm in the quarter-final, baby!

    Nick Bollettieri's Wimbledon Files

    Vasek Pospisil must ignore tiredness and tell himself: I'm in the quarter-final, baby!
    Ashes 2015: Angus Fraser's top 10 moments from previous series'

    Angus Fraser's top 10 Ashes moments

    He played in five series against Australia and covered more as a newspaper correspondent. From Waugh to Warne and Hick to Headley, here are his highlights
    Greece debt crisis: EU 'family' needs to forgive rather than punish an impoverished state

    EU 'family' needs to forgive rather than punish an impoverished state

    An outbreak of malaria in Greece four years ago helps us understand the crisis, says Robert Fisk
    Gaza, a year on from Operation Protective Edge: The traumatised kibbutz on Israel's front line, still recovering from last summer's war with Hamas

    Gaza, a year on from Operation Protective Edge

    The traumatised kibbutz on Israel's front line, still recovering from last summer's war with Hamas
    How to survive electrical storms: What are the chances of being hit by lightning?

    Heavy weather

    What are the chances of being hit by lightning?
    World Bodypainting Festival 2015: Bizarre and brilliant photos celebrate 'the body as art'

    World Bodypainting Festival 2015

    Bizarre and brilliant photos celebrate 'the body as art'
    alt-j: A private jet, a Mercury Prize and Latitude headliners

    Don't call us nerds

    Craig Mclean meets alt-j - the math-folk act who are flying high