On the Menu: Sashimi, London Cocktail Week, scotch eggs, Nose to Tail Eating and David Oliver's game soups

Food news and reviews

This week I've been eating... Sashimi

Chrysan, the "Japanese" restaurant wedged between the fleshpots of Shoreditch and the City of London, has one of the most peaceful dining rooms I've ever been in, all low lights and half-pulled Japanese blinds. Indeed, only the repeated malfunction of the stereo, which emitted a noise not unlike that of a cruise ship coming into port kept me from settling in for the long haul. Well, that and the menu.

It is an unusual one, you see, Japanese, but with a French accent. I must admit, I dodged the challenge, and had a plate of sashimi instead. Six mini bowls, containing 12 dexterously-sliced pieces. There was salmon with a wasabi jelly, yellowtail with a dab of horseradish, tuna with a soy concoction, prawn with ponzu jelly, and a stunning bit of octopus. Only the sea bass with, er, sun-dried tomato and parmesan struck a bum note. But then five out of six ain't bad at all.


Bottoms up!

It's not just Frieze art week that is nearly upon us. There's another of the year's many and assorted "weeks" about to begin, one in which even more alcohol will be consumed, nicer alcohol, too. I speak, of course, of London Cocktail Week, which will run between 8 and 14 October. Just order a wristband (£4 in advance; £10 on the day) and you get access to a plethora of pop-up bars, make-your-own masterclasses and a £4 cocktail menu in various bars around London's Seven Dials and beyond.


Bedtime book

It has always struck me as peculiar that chefs, during the "My Life in Food" interview, say they like to read cookbooks in bed. I think it odd to learn how to make a fricassee while swathed in a quilt. Or at least I did, until last night, when I spent the evening in the company of Fergus Henderson's "Nose to Tail Eating", a weighty compendium of all his best recipes. Now I understand. How to resist Fergus on how to eat "radishes at their peak", his advice as to the composition of a Bicylcette or the clear-sighted wisdom – "a perfect recipe steadies and uplifts"?

£30, bloomsbury.com

Soft centres

I love scotch eggs. And I feel that had Keats had the opportunity to try its contemporary incarnation, with its rich, oozing golden centre, he would surely have eulogised that, rather than a boring old nectarine. Alas, the pleasure of the soft-boiled scotch egg had largely been confined to the more adventurous gastropubs – but now, hurray, you will be able to buy a golden-crumbed version, sloppy-centred one in Marks and Spencer.

£3.49, marksandspencer.com

Soups you, sir

Keep the cold at bay with David Oliver's game soups. There are various venison and partridge soups on offer, but the best is the pheasant mulligatawny, with Berkshire bird, lots of spices and a nice dollop of rice at the bottom which renders your chunky loaf quite redundant.

£3.99, waitrose.com

Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
Life and Style
ebooksA superb mix of recipes serving up the freshest of local produce in a delicious range of styles
Sarah Silverman (middle) with sister Reform Rabbi Susan Silverman (right) and sister actress Laura Silverman (left) at Jerusalem's Western Wall for feminist Hanuka candle-lighting ceremony
peopleControversial comedian stages pro-equality Hanukkah lighting during a protest at Jerusalem's Wailing Wall
After another poor series in Sri Lanka, Alastair Cook claimed all players go through a lean period
Arts and Entertainment
The Bach Choir has been crowned the inaugural winner of Sky Arts’ show The Great Culture Quiz
arts + ents140-year-old choir declared winner of Sky Arts' 'The Great Culture Quiz'
Life and Style
food + drink
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Food & Drink

    Investigo: Finance Analyst

    £240 - £275 per day: Investigo: Support the global business through in-depth a...

    Ashdown Group: Data Manager - £Market Rate

    Negotiable: Ashdown Group: Data Manager - MySQL, Shell Scripts, Java, VB Scrip...

    Ashdown Group: Application Support Analyst - Bedfordshire/Cambs border - £32k

    £27000 - £32000 per annum: Ashdown Group: Application Support Analyst - near S...

    Recruitment Genius: Class 1 HGV Driver

    £23000 - £27000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This successful group of compan...

    Day In a Page

    Homeless Veterans appeal: 'You look for someone who's an inspiration and try to be like them'

    Homeless Veterans appeal

    In 2010, Sgt Gary Jamieson stepped on an IED in Afghanistan and lost his legs and an arm. He reveals what, and who, helped him to make a remarkable recovery
    Could cannabis oil reverse the effects of cancer?

    Could cannabis oil reverse effects of cancer?

    As a film following six patients receiving the controversial treatment is released, Kate Hilpern uncovers a very slippery issue
    The Interview movie review: You can't see Seth Rogen and James Franco's Kim Jong Un assassination film, but you can read about it here

    The Interview movie review

    You can't see Seth Rogen and James Franco's Kim Jong Un assassination film, but you can read about it here
    Serial mania has propelled podcasts into the cultural mainstream

    How podcasts became mainstream

    People have consumed gripping armchair investigation Serial with a relish typically reserved for box-set binges
    Jesus Christ has become an unlikely pin-up for hipster marketing companies

    Jesus Christ has become an unlikely pin-up

    Kevin Lee Light, aka "Jesus", is the newest client of creative agency Mother while rival agency Anomaly has launched Sexy Jesus, depicting the Messiah in a series of Athena-style poses
    Rosetta space mission voted most important scientific breakthrough of 2014

    A memorable year for science – if not for mice

    The most important scientific breakthroughs of 2014
    Christmas cocktails to make you merry: From eggnog to Brown Betty and Rum Bumpo

    Christmas cocktails to make you merry

    Mulled wine is an essential seasonal treat. But now drinkers are rediscovering other traditional festive tipples. Angela Clutton raises a glass to Christmas cocktails
    5 best activity trackers

    Fitness technology: 5 best activity trackers

    Up the ante in your regimen and change the habits of a lifetime with this wearable tech
    Paul Scholes column: It's a little-known fact, but I have played one of the seven dwarves

    Paul Scholes column

    It's a little-known fact, but I have played one of the seven dwarves
    Fifa's travelling circus once again steals limelight from real stars

    Fifa's travelling circus once again steals limelight from real stars

    Club World Cup kicked into the long grass by the continued farce surrounding Blatter, Garcia, Russia and Qatar
    Frank Warren column: 2014 – boxing is back and winning new fans

    Frank Warren: Boxing is back and winning new fans

    2014 proves it's now one of sport's biggest hitters again
    Jeb Bush vs Hillary Clinton: The power dynamics of the two first families

    Jeb Bush vs Hillary Clinton

    Karen Tumulty explores the power dynamics of the two first families
    Stockholm is rivalling Silicon Valley with a hotbed of technology start-ups

    Stockholm is rivalling Silicon Valley

    The Swedish capital is home to two of the most popular video games in the world, as well as thousands of technology start-ups worth hundreds of millions of pounds – and it's all happened since 2009
    Did Japanese workers really get their symbols mixed up and display Santa on a crucifix?

    Crucified Santa: Urban myth refuses to die

    The story goes that Japanese store workers created a life-size effigy of a smiling "Father Kurisumasu" attached to a facsimile of Our Lord's final instrument of torture
    Jennifer Saunders and Kate Moss join David Walliams on set for TV adaptation of The Boy in the Dress

    The Boy in the Dress: On set with the stars

    Walliams' story about a boy who goes to school in a dress will be shown this Christmas