On the Menu: Sweetbreads at One Leicester Street; hummus; Quintessentially vodka; East End Feast; Urban Night Feast

 

This week I've been eating...sweetbreads at One Leicester Street

The headlines this week may have been dominated by news of the first artificially created burger, but in my little patch it’s been all about getting back to basics with a nice bit of offal at One Leicester Street in London. The restaurant remains true to its former incarnation as the St John Hotel, Fergus Henderson’s Michelin-starred, nose-to-tail-eating venture. New owner Peng Loh has cleverly kept Henderson’s protégé, Tom Harris, in the kitchen, so the dishes have an undoubted St ­John-ish flavour to them, which is all to the good in my opinion.

The menu eschews “starters” and “main courses” and is instead split into five categories: fish, meat, vegetables, cheese and pudding. Dishes are to share, though I had trouble sharing one particular dish. The lamb sweetbreads were just outstanding. Plump as a child’s fist, tenderly cooked and served with proper bacon and glazed miniature carrots. Beats a stem-cell burger anyday. oneleicesterstreet.com

Vodka

Quintessentially Vodka, the first drink produced by the concierge firm for the frightfully rich, is a strange-looking animal. The bottle reminds me of a one of those supercars beloved of footballers, but then I’m fairly sure I’m not the target buyer, having never engaged a concierge service.

Quintessentially describes the sipping vodka, made for it by gin-makers GJ Greenall, as “smooth” and “clean” but to me its standout quality is its sweetness, the result of rowanberry botanicals It’s rather refreshing, in fact. The only downside is the price. £52, quintessentiallyspirits.com

Hummus history

The news that we’re a nation of big dippers doesn’t surprise me. I can quite believe that in a Europe-wide study of “fridge habits”, Britons came out as twice as likely to have some sort of dip in their kitchen as our continental neighbours. According to a study commissioned by the manufacturer Sharp, we dunk our way through 12,000 tonnes of dips and spend £60 million in the process. It’s all the more remarkable since the word hummus (the most popular dip) wasn’t even recorded by the Oxford English Dictionary until 1955, when Elizabeth David first implored us to get pounding our own chickpeas.

East end feast

I do like the sound of Emma Duggan’s feast menu at Whitechapel Gallery Dining Room this evening. In the past, Duggan has chosen themes such as hearty Irish, seafood and shellfish, and Spring lamb, all very nice. But this time she is taking inspiration from the location in Brick Lane for an “East End feast”, featuring steak and oyster pie, curried crab paratha, salt beef and gherkin and cockles with smoked bacon. Places are still available, so get booking. £35, 020 7522 7896

Urban Feast

Urban Night Feast is to return to Newcastle upon Tyne on 3 October. The three-day street-food extravaganza has drawn some very tasty names. Big Apple Hot Dogs will make the journey, along with Horn Ok Please, purveyors of tasty Indian street food, pizza-makers Fundi, and Mark Hix’s FishDog cart. urbannightfeast.co.uk

Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebooks
ebookPart of The Independent’s new eBook series The Great Composers
  • Get to the point
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Food & Drink

    SFL Group: Video Project Manager

    £24,000 pa, plus benefits: SFL Group: Looking for a hard-working and self-moti...

    Recruitment Genius: Hotel Reservations Assistant - French Speaking

    £16000 - £17000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This rapidly expanding travel c...

    Recruitment Genius: Duty Manager - World-Famous London Museum

    £24000 - £28000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: Do you have a strong record of ...

    Recruitment Genius: Personal Assistant

    £24000 - £28000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: You will have demonstrable unde...

    Day In a Page

    No postcode? No vote

    Floating voters

    How living on a houseboat meant I didn't officially 'exist'
    Louis Theroux's affable Englishman routine begins to wear thin

    By Reason of Insanity

    Louis Theroux's affable Englishman routine begins to wear thin
    Power dressing is back – but no shoulderpads!

    Power dressing is back

    But banish all thoughts of Eighties shoulderpads
    Spanish stone-age cave paintings 'under threat' after being re-opened to the public

    Spanish stone-age cave paintings in Altamira 'under threat'

    Caves were re-opened to the public
    'I was the bookies’ favourite to be first to leave the Cabinet'

    Vince Cable interview

    'I was the bookies’ favourite to be first to leave the Cabinet'
    Election 2015: How many of the Government's coalition agreement promises have been kept?

    Promises, promises

    But how many coalition agreement pledges have been kept?
    The Gaza fisherman who built his own reef - and was shot dead there by an Israeli gunboat

    The death of a Gaza fisherman

    He built his own reef, and was fatally shot there by an Israeli gunboat
    Saudi Arabia's airstrikes in Yemen are fuelling the Gulf's fire

    Saudi airstrikes are fuelling the Gulf's fire

    Arab intervention in Yemen risks entrenching Sunni-Shia divide and handing a victory to Isis, says Patrick Cockburn
    Zayn Malik's departure from One Direction shows the perils of fame in the age of social media

    The only direction Zayn could go

    We wince at the anguish of One Direction's fans, but Malik's departure shows the perils of fame in the age of social media
    Young Magician of the Year 2015: Meet the schoolgirl from Newcastle who has her heart set on being the competition's first female winner

    Spells like teen spirit

    A 16-year-old from Newcastle has set her heart on being the first female to win Young Magician of the Year. Jonathan Owen meets her
    Jonathan Anderson: If fashion is a cycle, this young man knows just how to ride it

    If fashion is a cycle, this young man knows just how to ride it

    British designer Jonathan Anderson is putting his stamp on venerable house Loewe
    Number plates scheme could provide a licence to offend in the land of the free

    Licence to offend in the land of the free

    Cash-strapped states have hit on a way of making money out of drivers that may be in collision with the First Amendment, says Rupert Cornwell
    From farm to fork: Meet the Cornish fishermen, vegetable-growers and butchers causing a stir in London's top restaurants

    From farm to fork in Cornwall

    One man is bringing together Cornwall's most accomplished growers, fishermen and butchers with London's best chefs to put the finest, freshest produce on the plates of some of the country’s best restaurants
    Robert Parker interview: The world's top wine critic on tasting 10,000 bottles a year, absurd drinking notes and New World wannabes

    Robert Parker interview

    The world's top wine critic on tasting 10,000 bottles a year, absurd drinking notes and New World wannabes
    Don't believe the stereotype - or should you?

    Don't believe the stereotype - or should you?

    We exaggerate regional traits and turn them into jokes - and those on the receiving end are in on it too, says DJ Taylor