Restaurants of the week

The UK restaurant scene is at its most vibrant since the giddy days of the modern British revolution in the late 1980s. London leads the pack but you can find decent and even exceptional dining in virtually any British city.

Richard Corrigan, a Michelin-starred chef, revitalised a London landmark when he took over Bentley's, 11-15 Swallow Street, London (020-7734 4756; bentleysoysterbarandgrill.co.uk) last year. Pull up a stool in the beautifully refurbished oyster bar for the famous fish pie.

Dine all day on roasts and pies in the sleek Canteen, 2 Crispin Place, Spitalfields, London (0845 6861122; canteen. co.uk). Everything but the ketchup is made in its kitchens.

The gutsy cooking of Tom Ilichas brought him a loyal following among foodies at newly opened Addendum, 1 Seething Lane, London (020-7977 9500; apexhotels.co.uk/ eat). Braised pig's cheeks and chorizo, garlic and parsley mash sets the tone.

The Thomas Cubitt, 44 Elizabeth Street, London (020 7730 6060; thethomascubitt.co.uk) is a gastropub fit for Belgravia. The dining room with its open fire and candelabra-style wall lights could be a set for the next BBC costume drama. Wild mushrooms and devilled kidneys on buttered toast sound are the thing to warm up Mr Darcy after a dip.

With just four tables, Bodega D'Tapa, Church Street, Brighton (01273 674116), is a tiny tapas bar with a big heart. You can wash down top-notch Iberian charcuterie and a bowl of fabadas with a glass of Rioja Reserva 1996, and your wallet will hardly notice.

Opus, 54 Cornwall St, Birmingham (0121-200 2323; opusrestaurant.co.uk) is a bold brasserie in the Conran style, complete with crustacea bar. The menu features seafood dishes such as grilled lobster and chips, and marinated Barbary duck breast with pickled red cabbage, fondant potato, and caramelised apple.

Geordie Terry Laybourne has brought his take on fine dining to the setting of Jesmond Dene House, Jesmond Dene Road, Newcastle-upon-Tyne (0191-212 3000; jesmonddenehouse. co.uk). Terrine of ham knuckle and foie gras served with pease pudding fuses home cooking with haute cuisine.

A team of ex-Ramsay chefs has bought metro- politan élan to Cornwall at Number 6, Middle Street, Padstow (01841 532093; number6inpadstow.co.uk). Warm mackerel with sweet peppers, cous cous, cucumber and lemon makes the most of local seafood.