Samuel Muston: On the Menu

Hawksmoor goes veggie; cocktails at Wilderness Festival; coronation chocolates; Twinings half and half

This week I've been eating... the ‘Surprise menu’ at The Pass

At Matt Gillan’s Michelin-starred restaurant, The Pass, at the South Lodge Hotel, East Sussex, there isn’t so much a kitchen table – the vogue of recent years – as much as a kitchen restaurant. All of it, 22 seats in all, are in the kitchen. In fact the dining room and kitchen are as of one, all zen-like.

You sit along one wall on a series of raised tables, the seat that’s facing the wall, rather than the kitchen, still has a view though: there are television screens showing the action abovethe banquettes.

It’s tasting menus only. There are three: the Gourmet Experience, the Pass Experience and the Surprise menu. I opted for the Surprise and it was just that with multi-component dishes that took traversed textures of Jersey Royals, proper pink duck, bream, soft-as-a-kiss pork and strawberry dessert. All the adroitness of a London restaurant minus the pretence. southlodgehotel.co.uk

 

Going Veggie

Can it really be? Has the great temple of masculinity, bloodiness and cow that is the Hawksmoor gone all soft? At its Spitalfields branch it is to introduce a veggie burger. The Chana Masala Burger is a tribute to a now-defunct curry house on Brick Lane and would be wholly vegan if there wasn’t butter in the brioche bun.

Also making an almost inconceivable debut is a fillet o’ fish made with whiting and jalapeno tartare. Not to worry, though – it’s still keeping the pulled pork bun  and chicken wings, too.thehawksmoor.com

 

Rocktails

Having suffered too often at the can-lip of a warm beer at music festivals it makes me pleased in a special way to hear that Russian Standard Vodka is opening a “Davai House” at Lovebox (19-21 July) and Wilderness (8-11 August) festivals.

Apparently, there will be theatre, dance, music and “cocktail entertainment”, which I think roughly translates as “proper real drinks for grown-ups”.The beverages will all be riffs on the Moscow mule. Question is does wanting a cocktail at a festival make me too boring to go to one? russianstandardvodka.com

 

Half and half

Twinings has been brewing tea for 300 years, so if anyone has a chance of turning us from a nation of breakfast tea drinkers to sippers of herbal infusions it is probably them. Everyone, after all, knows the benefits of green, redbush and peppermint by now. But whether the tea-makers blends of half-herbal and half-caffeinated bags (which, yes, you add milk to) will wean us off our normal cuppa remains to be seen. £2.29, twinings.co.uk

 

Corrie chocs

Prestat Chocolate seems to have had a rush of blood to its head about the 60th anniversary of the coronation. It has produced one of the most bonkers boxes I’ve seen – all flags and horse guards. Very trippy. The sea salt chocs within though? Divine. £16.00, prestat.co.uk

 

 

 

Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebooks
ebookPart of The Independent’s new eBook series The Great Composers
  • Get to the point
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Food & Drink

    SFL Group: Video Project Manager

    £24,000 pa, plus benefits: SFL Group: Looking for a hard-working and self-moti...

    Recruitment Genius: Hotel Reservations Assistant - French Speaking

    £16000 - £17000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This rapidly expanding travel c...

    Recruitment Genius: Duty Manager - World-Famous London Museum

    £24000 - £28000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: Do you have a strong record of ...

    Recruitment Genius: Personal Assistant

    £24000 - £28000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: You will have demonstrable unde...

    Day In a Page

    No postcode? No vote

    Floating voters

    How living on a houseboat meant I didn't officially 'exist'
    Louis Theroux's affable Englishman routine begins to wear thin

    By Reason of Insanity

    Louis Theroux's affable Englishman routine begins to wear thin
    Power dressing is back – but no shoulderpads!

    Power dressing is back

    But banish all thoughts of Eighties shoulderpads
    Spanish stone-age cave paintings 'under threat' after being re-opened to the public

    Spanish stone-age cave paintings in Altamira 'under threat'

    Caves were re-opened to the public
    'I was the bookies’ favourite to be first to leave the Cabinet'

    Vince Cable interview

    'I was the bookies’ favourite to be first to leave the Cabinet'
    Election 2015: How many of the Government's coalition agreement promises have been kept?

    Promises, promises

    But how many coalition agreement pledges have been kept?
    The Gaza fisherman who built his own reef - and was shot dead there by an Israeli gunboat

    The death of a Gaza fisherman

    He built his own reef, and was fatally shot there by an Israeli gunboat
    Saudi Arabia's airstrikes in Yemen are fuelling the Gulf's fire

    Saudi airstrikes are fuelling the Gulf's fire

    Arab intervention in Yemen risks entrenching Sunni-Shia divide and handing a victory to Isis, says Patrick Cockburn
    Zayn Malik's departure from One Direction shows the perils of fame in the age of social media

    The only direction Zayn could go

    We wince at the anguish of One Direction's fans, but Malik's departure shows the perils of fame in the age of social media
    Young Magician of the Year 2015: Meet the schoolgirl from Newcastle who has her heart set on being the competition's first female winner

    Spells like teen spirit

    A 16-year-old from Newcastle has set her heart on being the first female to win Young Magician of the Year. Jonathan Owen meets her
    Jonathan Anderson: If fashion is a cycle, this young man knows just how to ride it

    If fashion is a cycle, this young man knows just how to ride it

    British designer Jonathan Anderson is putting his stamp on venerable house Loewe
    Number plates scheme could provide a licence to offend in the land of the free

    Licence to offend in the land of the free

    Cash-strapped states have hit on a way of making money out of drivers that may be in collision with the First Amendment, says Rupert Cornwell
    From farm to fork: Meet the Cornish fishermen, vegetable-growers and butchers causing a stir in London's top restaurants

    From farm to fork in Cornwall

    One man is bringing together Cornwall's most accomplished growers, fishermen and butchers with London's best chefs to put the finest, freshest produce on the plates of some of the country’s best restaurants
    Robert Parker interview: The world's top wine critic on tasting 10,000 bottles a year, absurd drinking notes and New World wannabes

    Robert Parker interview

    The world's top wine critic on tasting 10,000 bottles a year, absurd drinking notes and New World wannabes
    Don't believe the stereotype - or should you?

    Don't believe the stereotype - or should you?

    We exaggerate regional traits and turn them into jokes - and those on the receiving end are in on it too, says DJ Taylor