Simple pleasures: Bill Granger pays tribute to Italian cooking

Be generous with the flavouring and pile up the plates.

view gallery VIEW GALLERY

Nothing says holiday-sharing food to me quite like Italian. From the sun-kissed flavours to the generous and haphazard way ingredients are piled on to serving plates, it's food that's meant to be prepared simply and savoured slowly, preferably with a bottle of wine or two.

Although I discover new favourite dishes all the time, there are certain modern classics that will always be up there in my top summer hits: artichokes, bagna cauda, a simple veal chop and, of course, pasta with a few seasonal ingredients thrown in.

Even if you're not in Italy, where the distance from paddock to plate is always so impressively short, you can lift good-quality ingredients with a few simple tricks. One of my favourite suppliers of Italian fresh produce that delivers nationwide is Natoora (natoora.co.uk).

Bill's restaurant, Granger & Co, is at 175 Westbourne Grove, London W11, tel: 020 7119 9111, grangerandco.com

Bagna cauda with summer vegetables

Nothing brings raw veg alive quite like this warm, oily, salty, garlicky dip.

Serves 4

100ml/3½oz olive oil
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
10 anchovy fillets, chopped
Juice 1 lemon
50g/2oz cold butter, diced
40g/1½oz breadcrumbs

Selection of raw vegetables to serve – we've used baby fennel, young carrots, onions, radishes, baby leeks and beetroots

Heat the oil and garlic in a small pan over a low heat until the garlic is fragrant. Add the anchovies and stir until melted into the sauce. Add the lemon juice, remove from the heat. Allow to cook for a few minutes before transferring to a food processor. Add the butter and crumbs then pulse to form a thick sauce. Pour into a warm bowl and serve immediately with a large spread of veg to dip in.

Orecchiette with tomatoes, courgettes and ricotta

I feel slightly embarrassed to admit that my girls had pasta-making lessons when we were last in Italy. They loved making these "little ears". Here we've used good-quality dried pasta, which works just as well.

Serves 4

400g/13oz dried orecchiette pasta
2 tbsp olive oil
200g/7oz Datterini or cherry tomatoes
2 courgettes, roughly chopped
2 garlic cloves
1 chilli, sliced thinly
75g/3oz Parmesan
100g/3½oz baby spinach
100g/3½oz ricotta

Cook the pasta in a large pan of boiling salted water until just tender. Reserve about 100ml/3½oz of cooking water before draining the pasta.

Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a medium to high heat. Add the tomatoes and courgettes and cook until starting to soften and blister, tossing occasionally. Add the garlic and fry for a further minute or until fragrant. Add the pasta and the reserved pasta water back to the pan and shake to combine the ingredients. Toss through the chilli and most of the Parmesan before adding the spinach and allowing to wilt slightly.

Serve with big dollops of ricotta, the remaining Parmesan and freshly ground black pepper.

Veal chops with broad-bean dragoncello

Salsa verde is so last century; this zesty dragoncello dressing-cum-sauce is made with tarragon so it has a lovely, distinctive flavour.

Serves 4

300g/10oz broad beans, podded weight
2 hard-boiled eggs, whites only, grated
2 veal chops, about 300g/10oz each

For the dragoncello

1 garlic clove
4 anchovy fillets
Large bunch tarragon, leave picked
Large bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves picked
Juice and zest 1 lemon
100ml/3½oz olive oil
Zest ½ orange, grated, to serve

Start with the sauce. Roughly chop the garlic, anchovy fillets and herbs. Tip into a bowl with the lemon juice and zest and add enough oil to create a spoonable sauce. Set aside so the flavours develop.

Cook the beans in boiling salted water for 3 minutes. Drain then roughly chop a third of the beans. Add all the beans to the dragoncello, along with the grated egg whites and stir to combine.

Heat the oven to 200C/400F/Gas6. Rub the chops with a little oil, salt and pepper. Heat an oven-proof frying pan and cook the chops for 2 minutes on each side. Transfer to the oven for 8 minutes. Allow the meat to rest for 15 minutes before slicing thinly off the bone. Serve with the dragoncello and orange zest.

Artichokes with pepper-and-almond sauce

Even the way these articholes look is meant for admiring on an al fresco table in dappled sunlight.

Serves 4

8 small artichokes
1 garlic clove, bashed
Juice 2 lemons

For the sauce

100g/3½oz jar roasted peppers, drained
100g/3½oz blanched almonds
2 tsp sweet smoked paprika
1 garlic clove
2 tbsp sherry vinegar
3 tbsp olive oil

First, make the sauce: put all the ingredients in a food processor and pulse until coarsely chopped, season well and set aside.

Now bring a large pan of water to the boil with a tablespoon of salt. When the water is bubbling, add the lemon juice, garlic and artichokes, cook for 10 minutes, or until the artichokes are tender at the base when you insert a small, sharp knife. Drain and serve warm, or leave to cool and serve at room temperature.

To eat the artichokes, pull off the outer leaves, dunk into the sauce then pull your teeth along the bottom to release the soft flesh. When you reach the centre, use a small spoon to discard the choke then savour the heart with lots of the pepper-and-almond sauce.

Food preparation: Rosie Reynolds; Props merchandising: Rachel Jukes

Independent Comment
blog comments powered by Disqus
News in pictures
World news in pictures
Life & Style blogs

Building blocks

A roundup of the latest property news

London renters are getting poorer and moving further out

Plus, do energy saving measures boost house prices?

London Collections: Men – Sporting, suiting, and the great in-between

The spring menswear season has only just begun, but I've already started to get deep and meaningful....

       
 

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Food & Drink

    Graduate Trainee – Recruitment Consultant

    £20,000 - £45,000 OTE: Co-Venture: Working for this company will give you a ch...

    Associate/Director of Transport

    £40000 - £60000 Per Annum: The Green Recruitment Company: The Green Recruitmen...

    Travel Sales Consultant

    £18000 - £35000 per annum + Award-Winning Benefits & Uncapped Comm: Flight Cen...

    Cruise Ship SEASONAL Work

    Negotiable: Capita Education Resourcing Permanent Team: Cruise Ship Seasonal W...

    Day In a Page

    'To farm I have to rape the countryside. It’s got to be wrong': The true effect of the badger cull

    The true effect of the badger cull

    'To farm I have to rape the countryside. It’s got to be wrong'
    Theatre review: Daniel Radcliffe gives an admirably honest performance in Michael Grandage's The Cripple of Inishmaan

    First night: The Cripple of Inishmaan

    Daniel Radcliffe gives an admirably honest performance in Michael Grandage's comedy
    Girls Guides drop religious reference but pledge to self and the Queen

    Guides drop religious reference but pledge to self and the Queen

    After 103 years, organisation changes oath to welcome 'all girls, of all faiths, and none'
    Steve Tongue: Joe Kinnear was one of the boys and a breath of fresh air... 21 years ago

    Steve Tongue

    Joe Kinnear was one of the boys and a breath of fresh air... 21 years ago
    Chris Froome: Free from 'pain in neck' after Bradley Wiggins' exit

    Chris Froome: Free from 'pain in neck' after Wiggins' exit

    Sky's lead rider says he is in fantastic form for the Tour and happy pecking order debate is over
    Hannah England: I've got the right times – now to focus on the chess

    Hannah England: Keeping Track

    I've got the right times – now to focus on the chess
    Beards, brawn and body art

    Beards, brawn and body art

    Meet London’s new batch of male models
    Scandi-geeks descend on Nordicana for fan-convention

    Scandi-geeks descend on Nordicana for fan-convention

    British love of shows such as The Bridge, Borgen and The Killing shows no sign of fading
    Behind the rhetoric what is really being done to combat desertification?

    The Great Green Wall of Africa,

    Behind the rhetoric what is really being done to combat desertification?
    Laughter Inc: the cheering growth of the chuckle industry

    Laughter Inc

    The cheering growth of the chuckle industry
    The bad science scandal: how fact-fabrication is damaging UK's global name for research

    The bad science scandal

    How fact-fabrication is damaging UK's global name for research
    To the manor born: The female aristocrats battling to inherit the title

    Female aristocrats battle to inherit the title

    A passionate protest is gathering pace among the women of Britain's aristocracy, who believe that men should no longer automatically inherit the family pile and title.
    Love struck: Photographs of JFK's visit to Berlin 50 years ago reveal a nation instantly smitten

    In pictures: JFK's visit to Berlin in 1963

    Photographer Ulrich Mack accompanied Kennedy on the entire trip. The results are an astonishing record of a watershed moment.
    Eat shoots and leaves: Mark Hix gets creative with fresh peas, mangetouts and sugar snaps

    Mark Hix gets creative with English peas

    English peas and their offsprings, such as mangetouts and sugar snaps, are great tossed into a salad, says our chef.
    Ceviche with a smile: Chef Martin Morales has turned South America's elegant cuisine into one of London's hottest food trends

    Chef Martin Morales: Ceviche with a smile

    Morales has turned South America's elegant cuisine into one of London's hottest food trends