Under a fiver: 2001 Three Choirs Willowbrook £4.99, Morrisons

Under a fiver: 2001 Three Choirs Willowbrook £4.99, Morrisons

From one of England's Big Three, this appealing dry blend of the Wagnerian-sounding duo, siegerrebe and schönburger, is well worth a punt. With an aromatic, pot-pourri spiciness in gewürztraminer mould and plenty of juicy, fresh hedgerow fruitiness it represents one of the best little corners of mellow fruitful England on the market . An ideal pre-dinner or fish-course white.

Under a tenner: 2001 Villa Wolf Pinot Gris £5.99, Sainsbury's

Wafting in on a fresh breeze blowing from Germany's Pfalz region, this smoky-scented dry white from Ernie Loosen is made in a surprisingly opulent, non-riesling style. It could almost be from Alsace if it weren't for the crisp, northerly bite of acidity. Try with smoked mackerel pâté.

Splash out: 2000 Pinot Noir Domaine de la Vougeraie Terres de Famille Bourgogne £12.95, Laithwaites, Reading, Berks (0870 444 8383)

Interesting that this progressive property calls its red burgundy pinot noir. There's something of the New World in its vibrant, red-berry scents and clean fruit flavours, offset by the textured quality of firm, youthful tannins. My advice? Buy a case and drink on special occasions over the next couple of years.