Under a fiver: 2002 La Riada Old Vines Garnacha, Campo de Borja, £4.99, Thresher, Wine Rack

There's no shortage of flesh on the bones of this powerfully built Spanish red with its wild berry flavours underpinned by a pepperiness reminiscent of a good, village Côtes du Rhône. Just the sort of robust red to wash down an Indian-summer barbecue or a kebab in front of the TV.

Under a tenner: 2002 Southern Right Sauvignon Blanc, Around £7.95, Oddbins, Averys of Bristol (01275 811100)

This vital, aromatic sauvignon blanc from the whale haven of Walker Bay at the southernmost tip of the Cape is a good example of the crisp, elegant style emerging from new, cool climate regions within South Africa. With its undertone of herbaceous fruit on the palate, it's a perfect dry white for autumn shellfish.

Splash out: 2000 Meursault Les Narvaux, Vincent Girardin, £18.99, Majestic Wine Warehouses

A complex, premier-cru white burgundy with the nutty character of true Meursault from one of Burgundy's most accomplished winemakers. A touch of vanilla from fermentation in new oak and the stirring of the grape lees in the cask add layers of texture and body to cope with cold salmon or white fish with creamy or lemony sauces.

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