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The Truffler: Berkshire butteries, free-range guinea fowl, Graig Farm

Saturday 03 November 2001 01:00 GMT
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More and more aristocrats seem successfully to be producing superior food and drink for the hoi polloi like you and me. Take the onward march of Duchy Originals, or the Earl of Sandwich, whose company delivers to offices in London the snack invented by his ancestor. Another, Lord Iliffe, whose name I imagine to be pronounced as a cockney would the British Airways in-flight magazine, owns the Yattendon Estate – 9,000 acres of Berkshire – and has launched a fetching range of ready-to-bake breads made with wheat grown in his Kiddington valley, milled in Wantage and turned into dough by a local baker. The natty packs have just won an award for their design, but more to the point, they taste great. Berkshire butteries are an English take on croissants, the olive rolls don't stint on black olives, and the latest lines are Frilsham cheddarwells (cheesy rolls), Kentish huffkins (soft white flour-dusted plaits) and onion starvealls (white rolls with onion on top). These frightfully pukka products are available in Cullens stores and independent delis and farm shops in the south-east.

Free-range guinea fowl reared to the highest welfare standards (in France even the the free-range birds have their wing tips cut off – these ones don't and so can fly around) and without medicated feed are now available from the Real Meat Co. They're the gamiest birds sold by the Real Meat Co, which refuses to deal with pheasants or partridges on the grounds that they're intensively reared, often given medication and then slaughtered for fun when they're almost tame. The Real Meat Co (08457 626017 or www.realmeat.co.uk) will deliver to homes or workplaces, and delivery can be arranged for the following day. Anyone living near Carshalton Beeches in Surrey, Bath, Leicester, Sheffield, Wheathampstead or Poole can visit one of the Real Meat Co's shops rather than its website. These sell only the company's meat, poultry, eggs, game, sausages, burgers and bacon. Around 20 other butchers also sell some of the humanely reared Real Meat range.

Although it won Retailer of the Year in the Soil Association's Organic Food Awards, you don't have to live round the corner to shop at Graig Farm. Just as well, as it's in the middle of Wales. Graig Farm is best known for meat, and is the umbrella under which 170 organic farms in Wales and the Marches sell their produce, some of it from the shop on its farm in Dolau near Llandrindod Wells (01597 851655/ www.graigfarm. co.uk). Any of the meat, fruit and vegetables, bread, fish, drinks, cheese and yogurts, pastas, oils and even biodegradable bin-liners that make up its winning range can be bought from its website and delivered to you.

Food lovers' Fairs do not exactly keep secret their passion for artisan producers – of rare-breed meats, hand-made chocolates, organic fruit and veg, cheeses from the milk of animals known by the first names, and so on – so this weekend's event in Covent Garden, London has been well publicised. But should you have been looking the other way while advance titillation of the produce offered by the 100 or so stallholders was given, the Food Lovers' Fair is on today and tomorrow from 10am until 5.30pm in the Market Piazza. Entrance is free.

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