Sticking with traditional wines at Christmas? Bah, humbug! Terry Kirby selects the best bottles to buy

A rare red

Tedeschi Capitel San Rocco Valpolicella Ripasso 2012

"Ripasso" is made when young wine is "passed over" remnants of dried grapes used for Amarone, creating another fermentation before oak-ageing. Amazing depth of red fruit and spice, but still fresh. Suits all rich meat and poultry dishes. £14.95,; £15.59,

An unconventional white

Champ Divin Cuvée Pollux Côtes Du Jura 2009

Made in a similar way to sherry, the Chardonnay and local Savagnin grapes fermenting under a yeast "crust", the result is like a dry, almond-flavoured fino, but with incredible length. Drink as an aperitif, with tapas-style dishes or Comté cheese. £17.20,

A singular port

Quinta do Noval Colheita 2000

This rarely produced Colheita – a single vintage matured in oak – is mellow, nutty, oaky, but with some residual bright red-fruit flavours. This will only improve, if you can resist opening with Christmas pudding and blue cheeses. A fantastic present. £44.95; £49,