Tollana Coonawarra Riesling 1992, pounds 3.29, Thresher, Bottoms Up, Wine Rack. Riesling has suffered from guilt-by-association, thanks to the bastard rieslings of central Europe with the resulting trend for rieslings to be hidden behind 'dry white' labels. Thresher was pleased enough with this Penfolds-group example to call it by its real name. It is fresh and florally scented with a slight spritz turning to soft, citrus-fruity sweetness on the palate, finishing crisp and dry.

Sainsbury's Cahors, pounds 3.29. Once known as the black wine of Cahors for its capacity (after boiling) to improve the colour of its Bordeaux rival, Cahors has now settled into a modern style based on the malbec grape, which plays only a minor role in Bordeaux. This example has fresh, herby, almost sage-like aromas and soft, perfumed fruit with a touch of softening merlot blended in. Betraying its country origins, it finishes on a note of robust astringency.