Food politics: one country wages war on molecular gastronomy

According to Italian food blog Caput Mundi Cibus, Francesca Martini, the undersecretary of the Italian Minister of Health, announced a new law that bans the use of the chemicals necessary for molecular gastronomy, including liquid nitrogen in all restaurants and prepared foods, excluding packaged foods.

The ban is set to expire on December 31, 2010 and Chef John, Caput Mundi Cibus' blogger and Swedish chef living in Rome, had this to say about the "bogus" law, "the whole thing feels like an outrageous publicity stunt from the government in a country where tradition reigns supreme. A way to regain people's (and voters') confidence promising them to protect Italian products and have restaurants serve fresh and healthy food, pointing out the ones that embrace the latest techniques and new ingredients as the bad guys."

On December 22, 2009, Martini explained to Striscia, an Italian news program, that the ban is in place to protect the health and safety of its citizens. Most of the food chemicals banned can be found in the line of "Texturas" products from Ferran Adrià, renowned molecular gastronomist and to some the "world's greatest chef." Adrià, who announced that his famous restaurant El Bulli will close in 2012, is no stranger to controversy over the health of his food. Jörg Zipprick, a German food critic and author of The Unappetizing Underside of Molecular Cooking, expressed concern about Adria's creations, "these colorants, gelling agents, emulsifiers, acidifiers and taste enhancers that Adria has introduced massively into his dishes to obtain extraordinary textures, tastes and sensations do not have a neutral impact on health" and may even pose a risk for intestinal cancer.

Avant-garde foodies and chefs may be disappointed but in Italy tradition and fresh whole ingredients trumps foams and gelees with the Slow Food movement and export of Italian agricultural products. It was recently announced that Eatly Turin, artisanal and slow food marketplace, will be expanding to New York.

It will be interesting to see if any other nations follow Italy's lead and what will become of the food law and politics in Italy on January 1, 2011.

Blog: http://www.caputmundicibus.com/

On Jörg Zipprick:  http://www.naturalnews.com/027485_cuisine_food_additives.html

RistoTV, a YouTube channel devoted to Italian gastronomy, restaurants and tourism, airs, in Italian, Martini's announcement to Strisicia: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2cy6HeX0ZIA

Official law (Italian): http://www.gazzettaufficiale.it/guridb/dispatcher?service=1&datagu=2010-02-18&task=dettaglio&numgu=40&redaz=10A02089&tmstp=1266745810060

 

Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebooks
ebookPart of The Independent’s new eBook series The Great Composers
  • Get to the point
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Food & Drink

    Ashdown Group: Technical IT Manager - North London - Growing business

    £40000 - £50000 per annum: Ashdown Group: A growing business that has been ope...

    Recruitment Genius: Technical Supervisor

    £24800 - £29000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: As one of London's leading Muse...

    Recruitment Genius: Centre Manager

    £14000 - £18000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This is an exciting opportunity...

    Guru Careers: Accountant

    £28 - 45k (DOE): Guru Careers: An Accountant is needed to take control of the ...

    Day In a Page

    Fishing for votes with Nigel Farage: The Ukip leader shows how he can work an audience as he casts his line to the disaffected of Grimsby

    Fishing is on Nigel Farage's mind

    Ukip leader casts a line to the disaffected
    Who is bombing whom in the Middle East? It's amazing they don't all hit each other

    Who is bombing whom in the Middle East?

    Robert Fisk untangles the countries and factions
    China's influence on fashion: At the top of the game both creatively and commercially

    China's influence on fashion

    At the top of the game both creatively and commercially
    Lord O’Donnell: Former cabinet secretary on the election and life away from the levers of power

    The man known as GOD has a reputation for getting the job done

    Lord O'Donnell's three principles of rule
    Rainbow shades: It's all bright on the night

    Rainbow shades

    It's all bright on the night
    'It was first time I had ever tasted chocolate. I kept a piece, and when Amsterdam was liberated, I gave it to the first Allied soldier I saw'

    Bread from heaven

    Dutch survivors thank RAF for World War II drop that saved millions
    Britain will be 'run for the wealthy and powerful' if Tories retain power - Labour

    How 'the Axe' helped Labour

    UK will be 'run for the wealthy and powerful' if Tories retain power
    Rare and exclusive video shows the horrific price paid by activists for challenging the rule of jihadist extremists in Syria

    The price to be paid for challenging the rule of extremists

    A revolution now 'consuming its own children'
    Welcome to the world of Megagames

    Welcome to the world of Megagames

    300 players take part in Watch the Skies! board game in London
    'Nymphomaniac' actress reveals what it was really like to star in one of the most explicit films ever

    Charlotte Gainsbourg on 'Nymphomaniac'

    Starring in one of the most explicit films ever
    Robert Fisk in Abu Dhabi: The Emirates' out-of-sight migrant workers helping to build the dream projects of its rulers

    Robert Fisk in Abu Dhabi

    The Emirates' out-of-sight migrant workers helping to build the dream projects of its rulers
    Vince Cable interview: Charging fees for employment tribunals was 'a very bad move'

    Vince Cable exclusive interview

    Charging fees for employment tribunals was 'a very bad move'
    Iwan Rheon interview: Game of Thrones star returns to his Welsh roots to record debut album

    Iwan Rheon is returning to his Welsh roots

    Rheon is best known for his role as the Bastard of Bolton. It's gruelling playing a sadistic torturer, he tells Craig McLean, but it hasn't stopped him recording an album of Welsh psychedelia
    Morne Hardenberg interview: Cameraman for BBC's upcoming show Shark on filming the ocean's most dangerous predator

    It's time for my close-up

    Meet the man who films great whites for a living
    Increasing numbers of homeless people in America keep their mobile phones on the streets

    Homeless people keep mobile phones

    A homeless person with a smartphone is a common sight in the US. And that's creating a network where the 'hobo' community can share information - and fight stigma - like never before