THE Gastropod is flattered to be described in the newsletter accompanying the first update of Harden's London Restaurants, 1994, as 'our fiercest critic'. Almost as flattered as the Pod's alter ego, Russell Cronin, must have been to find himself quoted on the back of the guide, having apparently described it, in this newspaper, as 'portable and concise'.
The guide awards grades for food, service and ambience, but the marking range of one to four offers too little scope for differentiation. Thus the widely disparate Peasant ('Grand Edwardian pub converted to a hiply basic Italian'), Caviar House Brasserie ('light and airy shop parlour') and Shillibeers ('a lofty, iron- pillared warehouse') all score two ('good') in all categories.
FULHAM Road Restaurant, London, rapturously reviewed by Emily Green on these pages a fortnight ago, receives a two for food and ambience, and a one ('exceptional') for service. Since Ms Green's review, the restaurant has reduced its set lunch by pounds 1 to pounds 17.50, thereby undercutting its keenest local rival, Aubergine, by a crucial 50p. Aubergine scores a one for food, and a two for service and ambience.Reuse content