Langan's Bar & Grill
254-260 Old Brompton Road, London SW5, tel: 020 7259 2599. Lunch, dinner and Sunday Brunch, reservations recommended
Friday, 7 September 2007
This is the perpetuating story of the legendary Richard Shepherd, as he continues, to virtually unconditional encouragement from his loyal legions of admirers, showcasing great food at great prices, even making such family and school-dinners favourites as treacle tart, rhubarb crumble, cod and chips, bangers and mash, and bubble and squeak chic.
His late partner and the founder of Langan’s, the great and frequently uproarious Peter Langan, wanted to create a typical French-style brasserie where you could sit down over a coffee and a Gauloise and read a newspaper. He envisaged a haven in which you could while away the day, with much bonhomie, surrounded by your fellow diners, drinking in the warmth and sheer style of the environs and, above all, enjoying the simple pleasures in life.
Shepherd continues that dream with much gusto in his restaurant empire. Langan’s Bar & Grill (formerly Langan’s Coq d’Or) on the Old Brompton Road in London is no exception. It has steadily become the preferred haunt of celebrities and foodies who want to enjoy the relative tranquillity of this hitherto unfashionable neighbourhood.
In true Parisian vein, the restaurant is stylish, fun and a totally indulgent experience. In fine weather, the whole of the frontage can be opened up onto the street, enabling diners to relax in the sunshine and watch the world go by. Meanwhile, Lima da Silva oversees the front of house with a watchful eye and much charm and humour. The wine list is informal and sensibly priced, comprising many of the most popular French wines and several New World ones. The typical Langan’s gargantuan menu is a reflection of not only Shepherd’s policy but also the restaurant’s gifted chef, Keith Stanley.
He offers such goodies as coarse country-style pâté with a Cumberland sauce, chicken, leek and crayfish pie, and salad of endive, pear and Dolcelatte with a walnut dressing. Even the traditionalists are not forsaken, with great main courses, especially the grilled ribeye bubble and squeak with béarnaise sauce and the excellent roast rack of English lamb with creamed pancetta cabbage.
The puddings will drive you crazy, notably the classic vanilla crème brûlée, a delicious mango cheesecake and lime and a superbly different roasted rhubarb syllabub. Need we say more?
SELECTED SIGNATURE PAIRINGS

Brie and spinach tart with apricot and ginger chutney; paired with Gallo, Sonoma County Chardonnay

Baked halibut with a pine nut, lemon and parsley crust and dill butter sauce; paired with Gallo, Sonoma County Chardonnay
To find out more about Gallo Family Vineyards wine visit www.gallofamily.co.uk.
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