Awards are both a curse and a blessing, but at Grosvenor House last night, the London Restaurant Awards, back after a lapse of two years, proved you don't actually have to just back-slap the fat cats and ignore the fact that 90 per cent of the population can't afford to eat at the city's most lauded restaurants. Instead, the Awards (of which I was one of seven judges) actually tried to reward the unrewarded.