Why hell hath no fury like the celebrity chef who scores a two-star rating

Tantrums are such a mainstay of celebrity chefs that these days it appears they consider it almost rude not to.

But when an AA inspector greeted Jean-Christophe Novelli and praised his culinary skills, he can hardly have expected to be thrown out of the restaurant like a "dog".

The hapless food critic and his companion were unaware the renowned chef had been so incensed by the AA Restaurant Guide's distinctly average award of two rosettes he had banned them from the Auberge du Lac. Having enjoyed a pleasant meal at the restaurant nestled next to a lake at Brocket Hall, Welwyn, in Hertfordshire, they declared their presence to the Frenchman.

"The inspector said he had always wanted to meet me and complimented me on the food and said the service was fantastic," the chef said.

"I said, 'Don't waste my time. I have had enough. I have already said you are not allowed in this place'. They kept on speaking. I don't think they understood. I could see there was some kind of confusion. He went from really excited to meet me to bitterness. I was actually sorry for them," he said.

The inspectors headed for the exit only to be told they had to scurry out the back "where the dogs are".

"I had to show my anger and I hope I am an example to others," added Novelli.

For the man often dubbed the world's sexiest chef, who owned a string of acclaimed London restaurants before his business went belly up a few years ago, taking over as chef patron at the Auberge du Lac last October was a chance to re-establish himself on the culinary map. It has just been awarded the Harden's Remy Award, and he will soon oversee a new restaurant at London's Capital Club.

"I don't think I have changed in my cooking, if anything I am more relaxed more composed, more creative. You are not telling me I have not progressed. Gordon (Ramsay) came the other day and said, 'You have a package of three Michelin star standard'. He is a friend but he doesn't have to say that."

Novelli - who has received a total of four Michelin stars during his career - declared war on the AA when he discovered its latest guide hadgranted him two out of five stars.

He was shocked to receive a photocopied letter, addressed to sir or madam announcing the rating.

"I felt neglected. I have been in the trade a long time and achieved a lot. I felt I deserved a little bit more recognition".

He is not the first chef to take exception to a low award. Mr Ramsay once threw the critic AA Gill and his companion Joan Collins out of his restaurant after a series of perceived attacks.

An AA spokesman appeared sanguine: "He is a creative person and he is obviously extremely enthusiastic and takes pride in his work. We are pleased he takes our rosettes so seriously. It is a reflection of how they are regarded in the industry."

But Novelli was not willing to give them that: "They are not a big deal. We are more focused on Michelin."