Poissonnerie de L'Avenue

I love the delightfully serene oasis that is Sloane Avenue. On pleasant summer evenings, the busy world of Brompton Cross and the Fulham Road is gently hushed, and all you can hear is the soft click-clack-clacking of Jimmy Choo shoes as their owners make their way along the pavement to the ageing, yet still beautiful, Poissonnerie.

The area may not be as swinging as it was back in the Sixties, but, even with a superficial exterior face-lift and extensions to the original dining room, Poissonnerie (established 1962) has retained its friendly and intimate atmosphere. The theme is still nautical, with the founder Peter Rosignoli very much at the helm, surrounded by his superb collection of framed, original oil paintings of historical seafaring themes.

The menu is fishy with a few concessions, such as an astonishing roasted quail with garlic, rosemary and sage, which paradoxically demonstrates that this is the place for serious dining yet fun. Chef Fernando works wonders in the kitchen, and with an excellent sommelier, Luis Marques, your dining experience will be memorable. We are impressed with the portions and quality of our starters, the pick of which are the poached quails’ eggs with Scottish smoked salmon and grilled squid with red and yellow bell peppers in a citrus jus. There are excellent mains, and again it is hard to choose from classic staples such as bouillabaisse maison, the feuilleté of wild salmon and mousse of sole, and one of the best Dover soles to be found, grilled, taken off the bone and served with spinach and zucchini fritti. Despite the fact that the cost of living has moved on since 1962, these are items that will not leave you in a state of wallet-shock when the bill arrives.

Rosignoli is at his persuasive best when it comes to the desserts – “I would try everything!” he mischievously suggests. We don’t, but still surrender to the crème brûlée maison, and genuine Italian ice cream – a trio of an intense chocolate, coffee and coconut.

Oh, it’s all so good, and better still, if you like the choice of fish on offer at Poissonnerie, they have a fresh fish shop right next door, La Marée, which sells virtually all of the seafood items listed on the menu. Now that’s enterprise!

SELECTED SIGNATURE PAIRINGS

Braised fillets of halibut served in a Champagne and mushroom sauce; paired with Gallo, Sonoma County Chardonnay

Bouillabaisse maison with saffron and spices served with rouille; paired with Gallo, Coastal Vineyards Pinot Gris

Roasted quails with garlic, rosemary and sage served with a jus; paired with Gallo, Sonoma County Pinot Noir

To find out more about Gallo Family Vineyards wine visit www.gallofamily.co.uk.

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