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RECIPE / Hungarian from the pork to the paprika

Emily Green
Saturday 20 March 1993 00:02 GMT
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THIS column has never received so many good recipes as the ones that have poured in during the past few weeks for the cooking with pork category. At least a dozen of the recipes were Hungarian. Here, a London reader with Magyar connections, Lucinda Antal von Dorgicse, offers a family recipe for porkolt. She will receive a bottle of Hugel Gewurztraminer Jubilee Reserve Personnelle 1986 from Reid Wines in Bristol.

She writes: 'Porkolt, meaning singed, can be made either with pork, veal or beef. We prefer to use pork, which should be slightly fatty, like pork belly. The secret to a really good porkolt is slow cooking.'

Porkolt

Serves 4

Ingredients: 1 1/2 lb/680g

marbled pork belly (2 1/4 lb/1kg if on bone), cubed

4 rashers streaky smoked bacon, finely diced

1/2 oz/14g lard or bacon fat or 2tbs oil

2 medium onions, peeled and chopped

1tbs Hungarian (not Spanish) paprika

1tbs tomato puree or 8oz/225g ripe tomatoes, chopped

10fl oz/280ml chicken or veal stock

Preparation: Preheat oven to 140C/275F/gas 1. Over a low flame on the stove top, melt lard in a good-sized casserole and add diced bacon. Cook slowly to release juices.

Add the chopped onions and cook until they are soft and beginning to brown - about 20 minutes. Add the diced pork belly to the pan, then increase the heat and sear it briefly. Reduce the heat.

Add paprika and tomato puree or ripe tomatoes. Take care not to allow the paprika to burn or it will impart a harsh flavour. Mix well and add the stock, bring to the boil. Cover and cook in oven for 2-3 hours, checking periodically to ensure it does not dry out, adding more stock as necessary.

The result should be meltingly tender pork with a richly flavoured gravy. For a creamier gravy, add 4fl oz/120ml sour cream mixed with 1tbs flour and return to oven for 10-20 minutes.

Serve with noodles or mashed potatoes. Ms Antal von Dorgicse recommends a traditional cooling accompaniment of cucumber salad made with white wine vinegar, salt, sugar, black pepper and finished with paprika.

Next week: more pork. Recipes are invited for the next category: cooking with asparagus. Those whose recipes we print will receive a bottle of Tokay Pinot Gris Reserve Rolly Gassman 1988 from Bibendum Wines in north London.

Send your recipes, stating the source if not original, to Emily Green, Weekend, the Independent, 40 City Road, London EC1Y 2DB.

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