This cut is highly regarded in France, where it is known as onglet. In the United States it is called hanger steak. Here, it is more likely to get used as stewing steak than cooked as a proper steak. Old-school butchers knew how good it was, though, saving it for themselves once the beast was butchered – hence the name. It lies just below the kidneys, near the flank and has a wonderful flavour. You'll need to order it in advance from your butcher, and ask him to saw the bone marrow shaft in half lengthways.
4 butcher's steaks, each about 200g
2 x 8cm lengths of bone marrow, halved lengthways
A couple of good knobs of butter
4 small shallots, peeled and finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
50–60g fresh white breadcrumbs
2tbsp chopped parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1tbsp vegetable oil for brushing
120–150g wild mushrooms, such as winter chanterelles
Set the butcher's steaks aside on a plate to bring them to room temperature. Pre-heat the oven to 200C/gas 6.
To prepare the bone marrow, heat a little of the butter in a pan and gently cook the shallots and garlic for 2-3 minutes until softened, then remove from the heat.
Scoop the bone marrow out of the bones with a spoon and chop roughly. Toss with the shallot mix, breadcrumbs, chopped parsley and some seasoning.
Spoon the mixture back into the bones, place on a baking tray and bake in the oven for about 12–15 minutes, or until lightly coloured.
Meanwhile, heat a ridged griddle pan or heavy-based frying pan. Season the steaks, lightly oil them and cook in the hot pan for about 3–4 minutes on each side, keeping them fairly rare, then set them aside to rest in a warm place.
Meanwhile, heat the rest of the butter in a heavy-based frying pan until foaming. Add the chanterelles, season and cook over a high heat for just 30 seconds. (More meaty wild mushrooms will take longer; allow a few minutes.)
To serve, cut each steak into about 5 slices and arrange on warm plates with the stuffed bone marrow alongside. Spoon the mushrooms over the steaks and serve.