Chicken liver kebabs

I was walking down the Edgware Road in central London a few weeks back and had one of those sudden kebab cravings – hardly surprising as this is the best place in London for kebabs. I spotted a chicken liver one, which I've never had before, and it was bloody good, even if I did manage to get most of it down my shirt. You can vary what you put in these, from crisp lettuce to white cabbage, and in mine I've used some long Turkish green chillis grown by my neighbours Judith and Gerard on their allotment.

250-300g cleaned chicken livers, cut into even-sized pieces
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
A few good pinches of sumac (a deep-red spice with a lemony zing to it, available in Middle Eastern stores)
1 small red onion, thinly sliced
A few leaves of white cabbage, finely shredded
4 flatbreads
2tbsp thick yoghurt
A good squeeze of lemon juice
1 small clove of garlic, peeled and crushed

Mix the yoghurt with the lemon and garlic and season to taste. Season the livers and dust with sumac, then heat a heavy frying pan or griddle, brush with a little oil and cook them for 2-3 minutes on each side, keeping them nice and pink.

Related articles

• Less is more: Mark Hix serves up a budget feast
• Roast saddle of rabbit with shoulder and leg cottage pie
• Slow-roasted shoulder of mutton
• Search the news archive for more stories

To assemble the kebabs, heat the flat breads briefly under the grill or on the griddle, then spread with a little of the yoghurt mixture, then the cabbage and onion, then the livers and roll them up.

If you are using the long Turkish chilli peppers just cook them with the livers and add to the kebab.