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Crab with mayonnaise

Allow 150g/5oz of white crab meat per person and try to pre-order through your fish monger, asking him to remove any shell. Please don't use frozen crab meat – it's watery and horrid – and don't accept pasteurised; it has a nasty aftertaste.

Place the crab meat in a bowl, loosening with your fingers as you do so, spoon in a tablespoon or two of mayonnaise, season with a little salt and pepper and dress using your fingers. Serve with warm toast and a little extra mayonnaise if you like.