Serves 6

12 desiree potatoes
600ml/1 pint full-fat milk (plus a little extra water if necessary)
Sea-salt and ground black pepper
3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely sliced
11/2tsp freshly grated nutmeg
400ml/14fl oz double cream
175g/6oz gruyère, grated
50g/2oz Parmesan, grated

Heat the oven to 200C/400F/Gas6. Peel and finely slice the potato into rounds about an 3mm or an eighth of an inch thick. Rinse under cold water (don't leave them soaking in water for any length of time as this removes all the starch).

Place in a saucepan and cover with the milk, top up with a little water if necessary and add a generous pinch of salt. Place over a low heat and simmer for 20 minutes or until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a fork.

Drain, and place the potatoes in a bowl. Add the garlic, nutmeg, cream and salt and pepper. Toss to mix well, taste and adjust seasoning if necessary. This dish is substantial in flavour, not insipid, so what you are looking for is a distinctly garlicky, nutmegy flavour.

Once you have the taste just so, place the potato mixture in an ovenproof dish and cover with the gruyère and Parmesan. Finish with a couple of turns of the pepper mill and place in the heated oven. Cook until golden and bubbling. This will take approximately 25 minutes. Serve immediately.