My husband Matthew is hard to move out of the kitchen, which is fine, as he is a brilliant cook. He will, however, budge over to allow me to make Gougère. This ultimate comfort food - actually more a discomfort food, as one always eats too much - is the perfect weekday supper, though it cries out for a rather sharp salad to offset all those eggs.

4 eggs
1/2 pint milk
1/4 lb plain flour
2oz butter
3oz grated Gruyère cheese
Salt and pepper
1tbsp grainy Dijon mustard

Put the butter - cut up small, with salt and pepper - into the pan of milk and bring to the boil, stirring all the time with a wooden spoon. When it has all mixed together nicely, pour in the flour, stirring vigorously until it turns into a smooth paste. Take the pan off the stove and put in one egg after another, carefully amalgamating them. The paste should now be beautifully shiny. Now add the mustard and cheese, stir and leave to cool.

Thoroughly grease a baking dish, then carefully spoon in the mixture, initially around the edge, gently flattening it towards the middle. (If you don't do this it will hump up in the middle and burn.) Sprinkle more grated cheese on top, put in the oven at 200C/gas mark 6 and cook for 30-40 minutes. Do not open the oven mid-way, and beware: it may look done but could be hiding an uncooked centre.

A new book about the life and work of the ceramicist Emma Bridgewater by Steven Jenkins is published by Richard Dennis, £28

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