Horseradish is the absolutely perfect accompaniment to beef – its deep, sharp, peppery flavour enlivens the meat and shakes it up. I am sure that there are some very good shop-bought varieties of this around, but making your own takes no time at all and I think it is more delicious, fresh and vibrant.

250ml/8fl oz crème fraîche
2 tsp red-wine vinegar
2 inches of fresh horseradish root,
peeled and grated finely
A good pinch of sea salt

Place the crème fraîche in a bowl and stir in the vinegar and grated horseradish. Mix well to combine. Add a little salt and taste; add more if you think necessary.

You can make this in the morning and set in the fridge until you are ready to eat. Allow it, however, to return to room temperature, as food cold from the fridge very rarely tastes its best.