Serves 4

These sweet young potatoes are good with all roasted meats – I particularly like them with quail, which is a tender bird not too gamey in flavour even though its flesh is quite dark. This dish is most delicious eaten with fingers.

1 bunch marjoram
4 quails
2 tbsp olive oil
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 kg/2lb Jersey Royals, well scrubbed
A knob of unsalted butter

Heat the oven to 200C/400F/Gas6. Divide the marjoram into four and place in the cavities of the birds.

Using your fingers, rub the olive oil into the skin and season generously with salt and pepper.

Place the quails on a roasting tray and put on the middle shelf of the oven. Roast for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, cook the potatoes using the same method as in the introduction.

When the potatoes are tender, drain and, while still hot, serve with the quails.