Mixed grill of pork with crabapple sauce

A year or so ago I bought some lovely skewers with a pig design on from my favourite cookshop in Paris, E Dehillerin in the Rue Coquillière. I've actually only just started using them but they look great, in a twee sort of way. This recipe involves most bits of the pig but you can really use whatever cuts and offal you fancy. It's also a great way to use rare breed pork from farms where you have to buy a quarter of a beast. Richard Vaughan at Huntsham Farm in Herefordshire does exactly that with his Middle White pork and Longhorn beef.

200-250g pork loin fillet or tenderloin
200-250g shoulder or neck fillet of pork
150g minced pork with 20 per cent fat
100g black pudding
2 pig's kidneys, trimmed
150g pig's liver
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
A few sprigs of rosemary
Vegetable oil for brushing

For the crabapple sauce

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300-350g crabapples
1tbsp caster sugar (plus more if required)

First make the crabapple sauce. Remove all of the stalks from the apples and give them a good wash. Put them into a heavy bottomed saucepan with a tablespoon of sugar, cover with a lid and cook for about 10-15 minutes, stirring every so often until the apples are soft. If there's a lot of liquid, just remove the lid and boil rapidly until it dries out, making sure that it doesn't splatter; it's bloody hot. Transfer to a bowl and leave to cool until required.

Chop the black pudding finely then mix with the minced pork; season well. Mould into 4 flat patties and place in the fridge. Cut the shoulder meat and loin into 4 similar sized chunks and do the same with the kidneys and liver.

Heat a ribbed griddle or heavy-based frying pan and lightly oil it. Season all of the meat and cook for about 3-4 minutes on each side (the liver and kidney will need less cooking), keeping them slightly pink. Heat the butter and rosemary in a separate pan until foaming and remove from the heat. Thread the pieces of meat on to decorative skewers or simply serve them on warm plates with the butter spooned over. Serve the crabapple sauce, at room temperature, separately.