Pickled salted lemons

With North African cooking so popular there's lots you can do with this tangy preserved citrus fruit. Salted lemons are very easy to make and taste amazing ­ far better than bought ones. If you like cooking tagines they are invaluable. Ideally, try and buy either organic or unwaxed lemons for this wonderful Claudia Roden recipe, which I've adapted from her lovely book Tamarind & Saffron (Penguin, £12)

3-4 thick-skinned lemons
4 or 5 juicy lemons
3-4tbsp coarse sea salt

Sterilise a pickle or Kilner jar by washing it in soapy water, rinsing and drying in a pre-heated oven 150°C/300°F/gas mark 2 for 10 minutes. Wash the thick-skinned lemons thoroughly then pat dry and cut each lemon almost into quarters ­ but not right through ­ so that the lemon quarters are still attached at the stem end. Stuff each lemon with a quarter of the salt and layer in the sterilised jar, pressing firmly down as you do so. Close the jar and leave for 3-4 days. The lemons will have softened and released some of their juice. Press them down and add enough freshly squeezed lemon juice to cover them completely. Leave for a minimum of a month before use. Rinse off the salt before using one.