Red gurnard salad with samphire and Jersey Royals

When I was a kid I would occasionally catch a gurnard out boat-fishing. I wasn't the least bit interested in what they were like to eat, even in soup. But don't write off gurnard so easily, just because they look a bit ugly and bony. Fillets of larger fish - a kilo-plus - can be boned and fried just like more familiar fish, with traditional accompaniments. You might find them in fishmongers. If you can't, red mullet will work as well in this recipe. But let's get gurnard out there if we can.

1kg large Jersey Royals, cooked in their skins and peeled
150g samphire, woody stalks removed
4 x 100g fillets of gurnard, boned
2tbsp olive oil
Salt and freshly ground white pepper

for the vinaigrette

1tbsp good-quality tarragon vinegar
2tsp Dijon mustard
1 clove of garlic, peeled
2tbsp olive oil
2tbsp vegetable or corn oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

First, make the vinaigrette. Put all the ingredients into a clean bottle or jar. Give them a good shake and leave to infuse overnight at room temperature. Heat the olive oil in a preferably non-stick frying pan. Season and gently fry the fillets for a minute on each side then leave to cool. Meanwhile bring a pan of water to the boil (without salt) and blanch the samphire for 30 seconds, then strain it in a colander. Slice the Jersey Royals into rough 1cm slices and mix them in a bowl with the samphire and vinaigrette.

Season with salt and pepper and arrange on four plates. Break up each fish fillet into 4 or 5 pieces and place on top.