Scallops seared in the half-shell, with fennel salsa

Marsh samphire, blanched and dressed in olive oil, is great with this dish.

24 scallops
A few glugs of olive oil
For the fennel salsa
1 burstingly ripe tomato
2 cloves garlic
1 bird's-eye chilli
1 small red onion
1 large bulb fennel
1 handful flat-leaf parsley
100ml/31/2fl oz extra-virgin olive oil
Finely grated zest and juice of one lemon
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

With a sharp knife, remove the half-moon, toenail-sized muscle opposite the roe of each scallop in one smooth motion. Dip paper towel into cool water and wipe grit from around and under each scallop, until clean. Dry scallop and shell with paper towel, then brush each scallop with olive oil and refrigerate while making salsa.

To make the fennel salsa, blanch, peel and cut tomato into 1cm dice. Peel and mince the garlic, finely the chop chilli and peel and finely dice the onion. Now dice the fennel, saving a few tips to chop coarsely with parsley. Combine salsa vegetables and herbs with extra-virgin olive oil, lemon zest and strained juice, and season well.

Heat a large, heavy-based frying pan, then drizzle with olive oil. Remove the scallops from the fridge. Sear in their shells flesh-side down for a few seconds until golden-brown, then turn swiftly. Spoon a teaspoonful of salsa inside each shell opposite the roe. A few seconds later the scallops will be just cooked – check for a whitening translucency in the middle. Serve in their half-shells at once.