Ingredients to serve 8

8 trout, each 175g
225g veal forcemeat, or the same weight of breadcrumbs mixed with herbs and 75g butter
115g butter
1 tbsp flour
150ml white wine
1 tbsp capers
1 tbsp lemon juice
salt and pepper

I thought I would never do anything to brown trout but eat it plain until I worked for my dear boss Rebeka Hardy. Her husband Lawrence and their son Allen caught so many that one needed to ring the changes. Rainbow trout, which isn't so tasty, should usually be stuffed.

Stuff the trout with the forcemeat or herbs and breadcrumbs and sew up or close with skewers. Place the fish in a buttered ovenproof dish, season and dab on 85g butter. Cover and cook at gas mark 4/180C/350F for 30 minutes, basting from time to time.

Remove trout to a serving dish, reserving the cooking liquid. Melt the remaining butter and make a roux with the flour. Gradually stir in the strained cooking liquid and the white wine. Stir until it just comes to the boil and add the capers and lemon juice, then season. Simmer to cook the flour for two to three minutes and serve with the trout.

From 'A Greener Life' by Clarissa Dickson Wright, Kyle Cathie £16.99

Sommelier's choice

Chablis 2007 Cave des Vignerons de Chablis, Burgundy, France

Waitrose, currently on promotion at £7.99 from £10.99 until 21 April

This classic dry white is made from Chardonnay and picks up a subtle minerality from the unique "terroir". The wine is dry, with crisp acidity and great depth of fresh citrus fruit flavour in youth, developing complexity as it ages. The crisp acidity of the Chablis will be a perfect match with the delicate texture and flavours of the trout.