Tapenade

Serves 4-6 (as an accompaniment)
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Tapenade is a black-olive paste that originates from Spain – it's delicious simply spooned on to bread, used as a salad dressing, or merely to dip little raw vegetables into. Rich and deep in flavour, it should be used sparingly so it does not overpower its companions. This needs neither salt nor pepper, the warmth being provided from the dried chilli, and the salt from the anchovies and olives.

I particularly like to pair the tapenade with a young goat's curd and very slowly roasted tomatoes – the sweetness of the tomatoes contrasts really nicely with the slight saltiness of the olives. Make it as close to the time of eating as possible.

150g/5oz pitted black olives
3 good-quality anchovies, such as Ortiz
1 clove of garlic, crushed
1 small bunch of flat-leaf parsley, chopped
1 dried red chilli, finely chopped
100ml/31/2fl oz extra-virgin olive oil
A squeeze or two of lemon juice

Finely chop the olives, or pound them with a pestle and mortar, then place in a bowl. Chop the anchovies very finely and add to the bowl along with the garlic, parsley and chilli. Spoon over the oil and mix well, and finish with a little squeeze of lemon juice.

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