I'm not one for messing with the classics, but I do love toasted crumpets with this classic cheese topping. The other day I went to make some and found I was clean out of crumpets. A lesson to be learnt: always have some in the freezer. I've burrowed into the rabbit versus rarebit debate before, and I'm sticking to rabbit, the term used as far back as Hannah Glasse's day in the 18th century. She gives recipes for Scotch Rabbit, two for English Rabbit and one for Welch, yes Welch, rabbit. Whatever you call your poshed-up cheese on toast - or crumpets - it's delicious, and you can spice it up as much as you like.
8 crumpets, toasted
250g Caerphilly or Cheddar cheese, grated
2 egg yolks
3tsp Worcester sauce
1tsp English mustard
40ml double cream
Salt and pepper
Mix the cheese, egg yolks, Worcestershire sauce, mustard and double cream together and season. Toast the crumpets on both sides, spread the cheese mixture on top, about 1cm thick, and to the edges to avoid burning, and grill on a medium heat until nicely browned.