Wild salmon with salsa verde and samphire

Serves 4

Wild salmon with salsa verde and samphire

If you prefer, use farmed salmon, but it has none of the flavour of wild. The conservation of wild salmon stock is important, so it really needs to be eaten rarely and only as a treat.

2 tbsp mild olive oil
200g/7oz salmon per person
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
200g/7oz samphire
40g/1 oz unsalted butter

For the salsa verde

1 small bunch of mint, leaves only
1 small bunch of basil, leaves only
A handful of rocket, well rinsed
A small bunch of flat-leaf parsley, leaves only
3 anchovy fillets
1 tbsp capers, well rinsed
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 tsp good-quality red-wine or white-wine vinegar
250ml/8fl oz olive oil

Start by making the salsa verde. Chop all the herbs finely and place in a bowl. Chop the anchovies and capers and add. Stir well to combine then add the mustard and vinegar, season generously with pepper and stir in the oil. Set aside.

Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/ Gas6, then place a large, non-stick pan over a high heat, and add the oil. Season the salmon generously on the skin-side only and, once the pan is really hot, add the salmon skin-side down. Cook for 3 minutes without turning, then place in the oven and cook for a further 5 minutes.

While the salmon is cooking, pick over the samphire, removing any woody bits, and rinse well. Put a large pot of water on to boil and, once boiling, drop in the samphire and allow the water to just come back to the boil. Remove from the stove, drain in a colander, place in a bowl and stir through the butter. Season with a little pepper but very little salt.

To serve, arrange the samphire on warm plates and lay the salmon alongside. Spoon over a little of the salsa verde or pass around separately if you prefer.