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E&O, London

Saturday 23 October 2004 00:00 BST
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It seems London will never lose its appetite for chi-chi oriental fusion dishes, especially when served in tapas-sized portions in the hip environs of a Will Ricker restaurant.

It seems London will never lose its appetite for chi-chi oriental fusion dishes, especially when served in tapas-sized portions in the hip environs of a Will Ricker restaurant. Ricker also owns Cicada, Eight Over Eight, and Great Eastern Dining Room, but this hasn't diminished the immense popularity of E&O (Eastern & Oriental). This cream-coloured venue, decorated with large circular lampshades, slatted wooden walls, dark wood floor and sleek banquettes, is a modern, quintessentially West London take on traditional oriental design. There's also a tiny bar with suspended glass shelves laden with spirits, packed to the rafters with glitterati enjoying the cocktails. For a venue that seems to be in love with its own image, its fashionable food is surprisingly good. Try water chestnut and date gyoza; betel leaf packed with toasted coconut and pomelo; crispy duck, watermelon and cashew salad; avocado, pumpkin and courgette tempura; yellow swordfish and jack fruit curry; or wagyu beef, tataki and wasabi with soy glaze. Follow with lychee granita, or vanilla and lemongrass crème brulee. E&O buzzes with an informal, youthful vibe that most grander establishments simply cannot match.

E&O, 14 Blenheim Crescent, London 020 7229 5454, www.eando.nu, Mon-Fri 12-3pm, 6.15-10.30pm, Sat 12-4pm 6.15-10.30pm, Sun 1-4pm 6.15-10pm. Meal for two, excl wine: £50

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