Momo, London

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Since Momo's North African cooking took London by storm over a decade ago, restaurateur Mourad Mazouz has opened Sketch and a new branch of Momo in Selfridges.

Since Momo's North African cooking took London by storm over a decade ago, restaurateur Mourad Mazouz has opened Sketch and a new branch of Momo in Selfridges. The original Momo, however, remains the best-loved of all three ventures. Since Madonna celebrated her birthday here in its early days, the venue has attracted a steady stream of A-listers. This is no surprise as the Aladdin's cave interior is stunningly beautiful: a modern Moorish mish-mash of Moroccan brass lanterns, colourful rugs, wooden screen shutters, low seating, and candlelight. Begin with a ritualised hand washing ceremony from beautiful staff dressed in kasbah pop art T-shirts. Then try dishes such as wild pigeon pastilla pastry; chicken tagine with preserved lemon; and lamb with prunes, quinces, almonds and couscous. Finish with toothsome pastries and refreshing mint tea, which is poured theatrically from a great height. The sumptuous members' bar and lavish toilets are both worth a visit; so is Mo, the sister patisserie next door. The timeless popularity of Momo proves that the intensely perfumed flavours of the Fez will always be fashionable.

Momo, 25 Heddon Street, London, 020 7434 4040, www.momoresto.com, all week (except no lunch on Sunday) lunch 12-2.15pm, dinner 7-10.30pm. Meal for two, excl wine: £45

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