One-O-One: Inside a tower in west london, you'll find an ambitious chef recreating the finest flavours of his native Brittany

One-O-One, Sheraton Tower Hotel, 101 Knightsbridge, London SW1, 020 7290 7101

One of the most intriguing dishes at the reinvented, redesigned and relaunched restaurant One-O-One is baked for one hour at 60 degrees. Intriguing, because it is the dish itself: a firm plank of sea salt that forms a foundation for a sampler of oysters.

The salt comes from Brittany, as do the oysters – Tsarkaya from Cancale – and indeed, the chef himself, Pascal Proyart. Even the butter here comes whipped with Breton seaweed, giving it a briny, savoury twang.

It's all about the sea at One-O-One. Proyart's new menu is divided into low tide (seafood), from the shore and beyond (seafood and more), high tide (fish) and sea and earth (surf '*'turf combinations). Everything comes in scaled-down "petits plats" portions, and diners are politely advised to order three dishes, so as to leave some room for dessert.

One-O-One is a restaurant with serious intent. You can see it in the fine glassware, plush napery and groomed staff, who are formal and helpful, if slightly humourless. The luxuriously comfortable dining room is the shape of a slip sole, decked out in what designers call "oceanic shades", and the adjoining, open bar has been designed to res-emble an oyster, with a central silvery share table representing the pearl.

The size of the dishes may have scaled down, but technique has not. Ingredients are often represented in various forms, including vogue-ish gels and frothy foams. So a starter of moulded red tuna tartare (£12) comes with a craggy outcrop of soft shell crab tempura, a little sushi roll topped with wasabi sorbet, a thin, crisp seaweed baton, and three little cubes of pink pickled ginger jelly. The sushi rice is then injected at the table with a soy and wasabi sauce via a miniature pipette. Busy, yes, but it tastes fresh, bright and focussed.

The mighty Norwegian red king crab, of which Proyart is the UK's leading ambassador, appears in five different dishes. For a starter of crab with sauce vierge (£11), the centre canon of the leg is very gently cooked and cut into three trunks, strewn with perfectly defined, fleshy little cockles and served with a warmed herb-based vinaigrette. It tastes simply as crab should taste – not bland, cold and muddy, but with sea-salty clarity and light-as-mousse texture.

The wine list speaks fluent French, but talks only to those comfortable with paying over £50 for a bottle. Two wines that slip under the net are a peachy, bone-dry 2006 Schloss Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner from Austria for £31, and an elegant, minerally 2005 Prieure St Come Chablis at £39.

An unremarkable-sounding red mullet bouillabaisse (£10) is the catch of the night. A single fleshy red mullet fillet squats upon a midden of chopped Brittany shellfish, including winkles, whelks and razor clams, as a smooth, heady bisque-like broth is added at the table, ready to soak into little seaweed-flecked croutons.

A pan-roasted Norwegian halibut is over-cooked, which suggests the kitchen is still adjusting cooking times to suit the smaller serves, but a foray into sea and earth lands me a dish of butter-roasted Brittany blue lobster tail and roasted sweetbread that shows perfect timing. Linked by a saffron-spiced carrot compote and a foamy vanilla emulsion (£17), the rich, broad, voluptuous flavours teeter on being overly sweet but are saved by the liferaft of finesse. As Alain Ducasse says, there is no such thing as genius in the kitchen, there is only the work.

To end, a frothy coupe Liegeoise of dark Manjari chocolate and salted caramel ice-cream (£6) disappears in seconds.

There is a precision and delicacy of touch at One-O-One that is in keeping with the chef's ambition to "go for a Michelin". It is a bit pricey and a bit poncy, but Proyart takes seafood to the sort of heights more commonly seen in his native Brittany, at, say , Olivier Roellinger's Les Maisons de Bricourt or Jacques Thorel's L'Auberge Bretonne.

That is clearly where his food should be eaten, with sea views, waves and screeching gulls, rather than in a land-locked Knightsbridge hotel. But at least it has the power to transport you there.


Scores: 1-9 stay home and cook 10-11 needs help 12 ok 13 pleasant enough 14 good 15 very good 16 capable of greatness 17 special, can't wait to go back 18 highly honourable 19 unique and memorable 20 as good as it gets

One-O-One, Sheraton Tower Hotel, 101 Knightsbridge, London SW1. Tel: 020 7290 7101

Lunch and dinner daily. Around £150 for two, including wine and service (business lunch £15 for 2 courses)

Second Helpings: More dining by numbers

36 on the Quay

47 South Street, Emsworth, Hampshire. Tel: 01243 375592

This quayside restaurant enjoys stunning views over Emsworth harbour. Not surprisingly, fish is a highlight, including red mullet on pea cream.

Café 21

Trinity Gardens, Quayside, Newcastle Upon Tyne. Tel: 0191 222 0755

After nearly 21 years at 21 Queen Street, Terry Laybourne has moved his bistro to larger premises, taking his crisp Langoustine fritters with him.

Eight Over Eight

392 King's Road, London SW3. Tel: 020 7349 9934

The Chelsea branch of Will Ricker's hip Oriental empire follows the formula of buzzy bar, designer dining room and pan-Asian hits, from pad Thai to Peking duck.

Life and Style
ebookA wonderful selection of salads, starters and mains featuring venison, grouse and other game
Life and Style
Arts and Entertainment
Southern charm: Nicolas Cage and Tye Sheridan in ‘Joe’
filmReview: Actor delivers astonishing performance in low budget drama
Arts and Entertainment
While many films were released, few managed to match the success of James Bond blockbuster 'Skyfall'
Arts and Entertainment
Up my street: The residents of the elegant Moray Place in Edinburgh's Georgian New Town
tvBBC's The Secret History of Our Streets reveals a fascinating window into Britain's past
Albus Dumbledore, the headmaster of Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry has been the teaching profession's favourite teacher
Luis Suarez looks towards the crowd during the 2-1 victory over England
Life and Style
Cheesecake frozen yoghurt by Constance and Mathilde Lorenzi
food + drinkThink outside the cool box for this summer’s frozen treats
John Barrowman kisses his male “bride” at a mock Gretna Green during the Commonwealth Games opening ceremony
peopleBarrowman's opening ceremony message to Commonwealth countries where he would be sent to prison for being gay
Sir Bradley Wiggins removes his silver medal after the podium ceremony for the men’s 4,000m team pursuit in Glasgow yesterday
Commonwealth games Disappointment for Sir Bradley in team pursuit final as England are forced to settle for silver
Alistair Brownlee (right) celebrates with his gold medal after winning the men’s triathlon alongside brother Jonny (left), who got silver
England's Jodie Stimpson won the women’s triathlon in the morning
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Food & Drink

    C++ Software Engineer - Hounslow, West London - C++ - to £60K +

    £40000 - £60000 per annum + Pension, Healthcare : Deerfoot IT Resources Limite...

    VB.NET and C# developer (VB.NET,C#,ASP.NET)

    £30000 - £45000 per annum + Bonus+Benefits+Package: Harrington Starr: VB.NET a...

    Visitor Experience volunteer

    Unpaid voluntary role: Old Royal Naval College: To assist the Visitor Experien...

    Telesales Manager. Paddington, London

    £45-£55k OTE £75k : Charter Selection: Major London International Fashion and ...

    Day In a Page

    Backhanders, bribery and abuses of power have soared in China as economy surges

    Bribery and abuses of power soar in China

    The bribery is fuelled by the surge in China's economy but the rules of corruption are subtle and unspoken, finds Evan Osnos, as he learns the dark arts from a master
    Commonwealth Games 2014: Highland terriers stole the show at the opening ceremony

    Highland terriers steal the show at opening ceremony

    Gillian Orr explores why a dog loved by film stars and presidents is finally having its day
    German art world rocked as artists use renowned fat sculpture to distil schnapps

    Brewing the fat from artwork angers widow of sculptor

    Part of Joseph Beuys' 1982 sculpture 'Fettecke' used to distil schnapps
    BBC's The Secret History of Our Streets reveals a fascinating window into Britain's past

    BBC takes viewers back down memory lane

    The Secret History of Our Streets, which returns with three films looking at Scottish streets, is the inverse of Benefits Street - delivering warmth instead of cynicism
    Joe, film review: Nicolas Cage delivers an astonishing performance in low budget drama

    Nicolas Cage shines in low-budget drama Joe

    Cage plays an ex-con in David Gordon Green's independent drama, which has been adapted from a novel by Larry Brown
    How to make your own gourmet ice lollies, granitas, slushy cocktails and frozen yoghurt

    Make your own ice lollies and frozen yoghurt

    Think outside the cool box for this summer's tempting frozen treats
    Ford Fiesta is UK's most popular car of all-time, with sales topping 4.1 million since 1976

    Fiesta is UK's most popular car of all-time

    Sales have topped 4.1 million since 1976. To celebrate this milestone, four Independent writers recall their Fiestas with pride
    10 best reed diffusers

    Heaven scent: 10 best reed diffusers

    Keep your rooms smelling summery and fresh with one of these subtle but distinctive home fragrances that’ll last you months
    Commonwealth Games 2014: Female boxers set to compete for first time

    Female boxers set to compete at Commonwealth Games for first time

    There’s no favourites and with no headguards anything could happen
    Five things we’ve learned so far about Manchester United under Louis van Gaal

    Five things we’ve learned so far about United under Van Gaal

    It’s impossible to avoid the impression that the Dutch manager is playing to the gallery a little
    Screwing your way to the top? Good for Lana Del Rey for helping kill that myth

    Screwing your way to the top?

    Good for Lana Del Rey for helping kill that myth, says Grace Dent
    Will the young Britons fighting in Syria be allowed to return home and resume their lives?

    Will Britons fighting in Syria be able to resume their lives?

    Tony Blair's Terrorism Act 2006 has made it an offence to take part in military action abroad with a "political, ideological, religious or racial motive"
    Beyoncé poses as Rosie the Riveter, the wartime poster girl who became a feminist pin-up

    Beyoncé poses as Rosie the Riveter

    The wartime poster girl became the ultimate American symbol of female empowerment
    The quest to find the perfect pair of earphones: Are custom, 3D printed earbuds the solution?

    The quest to find the perfect pair of earphones

    Earphones don't fit properly, offer mediocre audio quality and can even be painful. So the quest to design the perfect pair is music to Seth Stevenson's ears
    US Army's shooting star: Lt-Col Steven Cole is the man Hollywood calls when it wants to borrow a tank or check a military uniform

    Meet the US Army's shooting star

    Lt-Col Steven Cole is the man Hollywood calls when it wants to borrow a tank or check a military uniform