One-O-One: Inside a tower in west london, you'll find an ambitious chef recreating the finest flavours of his native Brittany

One-O-One, Sheraton Tower Hotel, 101 Knightsbridge, London SW1, 020 7290 7101

One of the most intriguing dishes at the reinvented, redesigned and relaunched restaurant One-O-One is baked for one hour at 60 degrees. Intriguing, because it is the dish itself: a firm plank of sea salt that forms a foundation for a sampler of oysters.

The salt comes from Brittany, as do the oysters – Tsarkaya from Cancale – and indeed, the chef himself, Pascal Proyart. Even the butter here comes whipped with Breton seaweed, giving it a briny, savoury twang.

It's all about the sea at One-O-One. Proyart's new menu is divided into low tide (seafood), from the shore and beyond (seafood and more), high tide (fish) and sea and earth (surf '*'turf combinations). Everything comes in scaled-down "petits plats" portions, and diners are politely advised to order three dishes, so as to leave some room for dessert.

One-O-One is a restaurant with serious intent. You can see it in the fine glassware, plush napery and groomed staff, who are formal and helpful, if slightly humourless. The luxuriously comfortable dining room is the shape of a slip sole, decked out in what designers call "oceanic shades", and the adjoining, open bar has been designed to res-emble an oyster, with a central silvery share table representing the pearl.

The size of the dishes may have scaled down, but technique has not. Ingredients are often represented in various forms, including vogue-ish gels and frothy foams. So a starter of moulded red tuna tartare (£12) comes with a craggy outcrop of soft shell crab tempura, a little sushi roll topped with wasabi sorbet, a thin, crisp seaweed baton, and three little cubes of pink pickled ginger jelly. The sushi rice is then injected at the table with a soy and wasabi sauce via a miniature pipette. Busy, yes, but it tastes fresh, bright and focussed.

The mighty Norwegian red king crab, of which Proyart is the UK's leading ambassador, appears in five different dishes. For a starter of crab with sauce vierge (£11), the centre canon of the leg is very gently cooked and cut into three trunks, strewn with perfectly defined, fleshy little cockles and served with a warmed herb-based vinaigrette. It tastes simply as crab should taste – not bland, cold and muddy, but with sea-salty clarity and light-as-mousse texture.

The wine list speaks fluent French, but talks only to those comfortable with paying over £50 for a bottle. Two wines that slip under the net are a peachy, bone-dry 2006 Schloss Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner from Austria for £31, and an elegant, minerally 2005 Prieure St Come Chablis at £39.

An unremarkable-sounding red mullet bouillabaisse (£10) is the catch of the night. A single fleshy red mullet fillet squats upon a midden of chopped Brittany shellfish, including winkles, whelks and razor clams, as a smooth, heady bisque-like broth is added at the table, ready to soak into little seaweed-flecked croutons.

A pan-roasted Norwegian halibut is over-cooked, which suggests the kitchen is still adjusting cooking times to suit the smaller serves, but a foray into sea and earth lands me a dish of butter-roasted Brittany blue lobster tail and roasted sweetbread that shows perfect timing. Linked by a saffron-spiced carrot compote and a foamy vanilla emulsion (£17), the rich, broad, voluptuous flavours teeter on being overly sweet but are saved by the liferaft of finesse. As Alain Ducasse says, there is no such thing as genius in the kitchen, there is only the work.

To end, a frothy coupe Liegeoise of dark Manjari chocolate and salted caramel ice-cream (£6) disappears in seconds.

There is a precision and delicacy of touch at One-O-One that is in keeping with the chef's ambition to "go for a Michelin". It is a bit pricey and a bit poncy, but Proyart takes seafood to the sort of heights more commonly seen in his native Brittany, at, say , Olivier Roellinger's Les Maisons de Bricourt or Jacques Thorel's L'Auberge Bretonne.

That is clearly where his food should be eaten, with sea views, waves and screeching gulls, rather than in a land-locked Knightsbridge hotel. But at least it has the power to transport you there.

16/20

Scores: 1-9 stay home and cook 10-11 needs help 12 ok 13 pleasant enough 14 good 15 very good 16 capable of greatness 17 special, can't wait to go back 18 highly honourable 19 unique and memorable 20 as good as it gets

One-O-One, Sheraton Tower Hotel, 101 Knightsbridge, London SW1. Tel: 020 7290 7101

Lunch and dinner daily. Around £150 for two, including wine and service (business lunch £15 for 2 courses)

Second Helpings: More dining by numbers

36 on the Quay

47 South Street, Emsworth, Hampshire. Tel: 01243 375592

This quayside restaurant enjoys stunning views over Emsworth harbour. Not surprisingly, fish is a highlight, including red mullet on pea cream.

Café 21

Trinity Gardens, Quayside, Newcastle Upon Tyne. Tel: 0191 222 0755

After nearly 21 years at 21 Queen Street, Terry Laybourne has moved his bistro to larger premises, taking his crisp Langoustine fritters with him.

Eight Over Eight

392 King's Road, London SW3. Tel: 020 7349 9934

The Chelsea branch of Will Ricker's hip Oriental empire follows the formula of buzzy bar, designer dining room and pan-Asian hits, from pad Thai to Peking duck.

Travel
travel
News
Tim Vine has won the funniest joke award at the Edinburgh Festival 2014
peopleTim Vine, winner of the Funniest Joke of the Fringe award, has nigh-on 200 in his act. So how are they conceived?
News
Jamie and Emily Pharro discovering their friend's prank
video
Arts and Entertainment
Taylor Swift crawls through the legs of twerking dancers in her 'Shake It Off' music video
musicEarl Sweatshirt thinks so
PROMOTED VIDEO
Life and Style
ebooksA superb mix of recipes serving up the freshest of local produce in a delicious range of styles
Life and Style
ebooksFrom the lifespan of a slug to the distance to the Sun: answers to 500 questions from readers
News
Our resilience to stress is to a large extent determined by our genes
science
Travel
travel
Arts and Entertainment
tv
Sport
sportBesiktas 0 Arsenal 0: Champions League qualifying first-leg match ends in stalemate in Istanbul
News
Pornography is more accessible - and harder to avoid - than ever
news... but they still admit watching it
Arts and Entertainment
The eyes have it: Kate Bush
musicKate Bush asks fans not to take photos at London gigs
News
i100
Extras
indybest
Sport
Manchester United are believed to have made a £15m bid for Marcos Rojo
sportWinger Nani returns to Lisbon for a season-long loan as part of deal
News
news
News
i100
Arts and Entertainment
O'Toole as Cornelius Gallus in ‘Katherine of Alexandria’
filmSadly though, the Lawrence of Arabia star is not around to lend his own critique
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Food & Drink

    Oracle 11g SQL 2008 DBA (Unix, Oracle RAC, Mirroring, Replicati

    £6000 - £50000 per annum + Bonus+Benefits+Package: Harrington Starr: Oracle 11...

    Recruitment Consultant (Graduate Trainee), Finchley Central

    £17K OTE £30K: Charter Selection: Highly successful and innovative specialist...

    SQL DBA/ C# Developer - T-SQL, C#.Net

    £45000 - £55000 per annum + Benefits: Ashdown Group: Working with an exciting ...

    Sales and Office Administrator – Sports Media

    £23,000: Sauce Recruitment: A global leader in sports and entertainment is now...

    Day In a Page

    Ferguson: In the heartlands of America, a descent into madness

    A descent into madness in America's heartlands

    David Usborne arrived in Ferguson, Missouri to be greeted by a scene more redolent of Gaza and Afghanistan
    BBC’s filming of raid at Sir Cliff’s home ‘may be result of corruption’

    BBC faces corruption allegation over its Sir Cliff police raid coverage

    Reporter’s relationship with police under scrutiny as DG is summoned by MPs to explain extensive live broadcast of swoop on singer’s home
    Lauded therapist Harley Mille still in limbo as battle to stay in Britain drags on

    Lauded therapist still in limbo as battle to stay in Britain drags on

    Australian Harley Miller is as frustrated by court delays as she is with the idiosyncrasies of immigration law
    Lewis Fry Richardson's weather forecasts changed the world. But could his predictions of war do the same?

    Lewis Fry Richardson's weather forecasts changed the world...

    But could his predictions of war do the same?
    Kate Bush asks fans not to take photos at her London gigs: 'I want to have contact with the audience, not iPhones'

    'I want to have contact with the audience, not iPhones'

    Kate Bush asks fans not to take photos at her London gigs
    Under-35s have rated gardening in their top five favourite leisure activities, but why?

    Young at hort

    Under-35s have rated gardening in their top five favourite leisure activities. But why are so many people are swapping sweaty clubs for leafy shrubs?
    Tim Vine, winner of the Funniest Joke of the Fringe award: 'making a quip as funny as possible is an art'

    Beyond a joke

    Tim Vine, winner of the Funniest Joke of the Fringe award, has nigh-on 200 in his act. So how are they conceived?
    The late Peter O'Toole shines in 'Katherine of Alexandria' despite illness

    The late Peter O'Toole shines in 'Katherine of Alexandria' despite illness

    Sadly though, the Lawrence of Arabia star is not around to lend his own critique
    Wicken Fen in Cambridgeshire: The joy of camping in a wetland nature reserve and sleeping under the stars

    A wild night out

    Wicken Fen in Cambridgeshire offers a rare chance to camp in a wetland nature reserve
    Comic Sans for Cancer exhibition: It’s the font that’s openly ridiculed for its jaunty style, but figures of fun have their fans

    Comic Sans for Cancer exhibition

    It’s the font that’s openly ridiculed for its jaunty style, but figures of fun have their fans
    Besiktas vs Arsenal: Five things we learnt from the Champions League first-leg tie

    Besiktas vs Arsenal

    Five things we learnt from the Champions League first-leg tie
    Rory McIlroy a smash hit on the US talk show circuit

    Rory McIlroy a smash hit on the US talk show circuit

    As the Northern Irishman prepares for the Barclays, he finds time to appear on TV in the States, where he’s now such a global superstar that he needs no introduction
    Boy racer Max Verstappen stays relaxed over step up to Formula One

    Boy racer Max Verstappen stays relaxed over step up to F1

    The 16-year-old will become the sport’s youngest-ever driver when he makes his debut for Toro Rosso next season
    Fear brings the enemies of Isis together at last

    Fear brings the enemies of Isis together at last

    But belated attempts to unite will be to no avail if the Sunni caliphate remains strong in Syria, says Patrick Cockburn
    Charlie Gilmour: 'I wondered if I would end up killing myself in jail'

    Charlie Gilmour: 'I wondered if I'd end up killing myself in jail'

    Following last week's report on prison suicides, the former inmate asks how much progress we have made in the 50 years since the abolition of capital punishment