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Pearly kings

Their seafood company is called Wright Brothers and business is flying high. But tonight is a gathering of friends keen to sample the finest oysters, langoustines and scallops. Sudi Pigott gets shucked in

Sunday 11 July 2004 00:00 BST
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I've got 24 bags of ice - do you think that's enough for tonight?" Ben Wright goads his brother-in-law and business partner, Robin Hancock. "Ben doesn't believe in doing anything by halves," retorts Robin good-naturedly.

I've got 24 bags of ice - do you think that's enough for tonight?" Ben Wright goads his brother-in-law and business partner, Robin Hancock. "Ben doesn't believe in doing anything by halves," retorts Robin good-naturedly.

Life has changed dramatically for former City lawyer Ben and record producer Robin (who has worked with Madonna and Billy Idol) since they set up Wright Brothers 18 months ago. The company supplies French oysters to top restaurants including the Wolseley and J Sheekey. "Everything is different, even my social life has taken on a new dimension - I used to squander hours in champagne bars wearing designer suits, now look at me," says Ben (who is wearing tattered jeans and an old T-shirt).

Tonight, it's a mixture of chefs, customers who've become mates and old friends from Robin's clubbing days who have gathered at Robin's bucolic place in Kew to sample Wright Brothers's newest products: exceptionally large and tasty langoustines from the Western Isles of Scotland and almost obscenely plump scallops from the Isle of Skye.

But first the oysters. It's a balmy evening so we troop out into the pretty garden for some serious shucking. Ben patiently gives his 10-year-old nephew Archie a lesson - he's chuffed to bits to have a go but categorically refuses to try eating one. There's a big bowl of sizzling mini chorizo slices to accompany the oysters and constant replenishments of Touraine Sauvignon.

It's getting nippy so we adjourn to the kitchen table and watch ex-Pharmacy chef Richard Turner deftly steaming scallops. "Any idea where the saffron is?" asks Richard, who's attempting to knock up his own variation on the Chinese restaurant New Diamond's spicy soy sauce. Richard says he knew straightaway that Robin had an ulterior motive when he asked him round. But adds: "I'm not complaining, I enjoy cooking with really delicious ingredients, especially for my mates."

"I'm absolutely not into formal entertaining these days," says Robin switching to bigger glasses and a great red to accompany the cheese and De Gustibus bread bought at Borough Market earlier in the day. "I believe the ingredients should speak for themselves. Though I love cooking, I want to spend time catching up with friends, not faffing around in the kitchen. Anyway, tonight, we're lucky we've got Richard (who numbers as his clients the Royals and the sort of people who fly him out to their private yacht on the Mediterranean).

Robin's not the only one who doesn't want to be in the kitchen. It seems as if everyone here has been working to the limits all week and is determined to chill, joke and reminisce over a few Cognacs. After all, tomorrow's the weekend. Never mind that Ben will be up at 5am to collect fresh oysters and do his rounds.

What's on the menu? The world is their oyster

Who's who? Robin Hancock and his wife Susie, a photographers' agent specialising in fashion, interiors and food; Ben Wright; Richard Turner, consultant and private chef with a who's who of illustrious clients; Simon Thomas and his best mate Ian English, a freelance skiing journalist chilling out over the summer; Tiggy Kennedy, a portrait photographer and proud mum, plus her best friend to clothes shop with, Rachel Reavley, who works in publishing.

The occasion A tasting of Wright Brothers's ( www.wrightbros.eu.com) new langoustine and scallop delicacies and a thank you to key friends who've helped get the business started.

What's cooking? Who needs to cook you've when got such amazing ingredients? The Wright Brothers apply a purist philosophy to sourcing their fish: summer Pousse en Claire oysters with shallot and vinegar sauce and Brindisa hot chorizo; vast quantities of langoustine; hand-dived scallops with spicy soy sauce and smoked scallops, fresh peas still in their pods and, to finish it all off, a gorgeous selection of English and French cheeses from London's Borough Market.

And to drink? Touraine Sauvignon and Nectar des Bertrands from Bordeaux bought from Bedales (5 Bedale Street, London SE1, tel: 020 7403 8853) in Borough Market, plus more Cognac than anyone would be able to remember the next day.

Name that tune A Cream (the Liverpool superclub not the 1970s supergroup) compilation is deemed not cool enough by Ben who promptly switches to the Thievery Corporation's dance-music mix of Brazilian, French and Spanish influences.

Style tips The women seem to be mainly wearing jeans and little boho-style tops, while the men are also favouring jeans, theirs are matched with sharp shirts. The other thing that everyone seems to agree on is that finger food is the only way to eat - far more sensual and delicious.

Any gossip? Is it necessary to speak the same language as one's lover; the most extravagant hen nights anyone has been on; ski-slope exploits; and the usual scurrilous discussion of mutual friends' relationships. Plus, the subject of food thrown casually into conversation. "Of course, I try to only use extra-virgin olive oil from my father's little estate in Greece." "Yes, Ben, it's sensational."

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