Sake no Hana, 23 St James's Street, London

So this is how it must have felt to be around during the last days of the Roman Empire. Sipping Krug champagne (£30 a glass) and nibbling lotus root tempura (£2 a bite) at a sunken table high over St James's (squillions of pounds per square metre) while one's stockinged feet are warmed by an under-table heating system. Not a feat of time travel, but one of income travel; this is how London's rich and fabulous will be taking their Oriental food in 2008, with the opening of Sake no Hana, already established in fashionable circles as "the new Nobu".

The owner, a Russian billionaire whose previous investments have included Geri Halliwell, has recruited the restaurateur Alan Yau to front up his modern Japanese restaurant, in a partnership of big bucks and creative brilliance unrivalled since Abramovich hired Mourinho. The venue, a Sixties landmark built for The Economist, stubbornly refused to surrender to the last two high-end restaurants that opened and closed there in short order.

The food is inspired by rustic dishes, and ranges far wider than most Japanese menus tend to. With Wagamama, Alan Yau democratised Japanese food; here, he is working in the opposite direction, presenting home-style dishes in tiny portions for the well-heeled and carb-averse.

Just how well-heeled diners are is on literal display; shoes must be removed before you're allowed to slip into your tatami-lined conversation pit. God forbid you should be wearing Office knock-offs; they'll stand sentry by your table, letting you down, for the rest of the evening. The entrance is via escalators, which glide up through halls of lacquered black and gold reminiscent of the heyday of Biba. Upstairs, there's an abrupt change of style, as shiny black yields to golden wood, bamboo, natural textiles, and a petrified forest of giant Jenga rods suspended from the high ceiling. It's all beautiful, in an other-worldly sort of way; like being in an artist's impression of a finished building rather than the real world.

The menu, too, causes a temporary disorientation, divided as it is into a succession of unfamiliar sections. But as there appears to be at least three attentive staff per diner, it's not hard to steer a course from light dishes and sashimi, through tempura and sushi, to braised dishes and the noodles and rice with which Japanese meals traditionally end.

We chose a couple from each section, and our stab-in-the-dark ordering technique threw up some inspired dishes, notably an appetiser of warm, silky aubergine flesh dressed with sesame and bonito flakes, and from the grill menu, a miso-sweet slice of Chilean seabass which had a rich, glutinous texture that recalled Nobu's famous black cod. From a tempura list that charges per single item, alerting you to the fact that you are paying £1.50 for a stalk of asparagus, we chose lotus root and courgette flower, and were rather more aware of the taste of the batter than we should have been.

Sashimi and sushi, created in a self-contained sushi bar downstairs, were great, though our sampling of botan ebi (raw prawn) revealed that there's a good reason why prawn is usually served cooked. And another warning: on no account ever go near ginkgo nuts, unless armed with a large hammer; they look like pale olives, and taste like washing-up water.

Overall though, this is cooking of a very high quality, and like Yau's brilliant Hakkasan, the menu no doubt continues to yield its pleasures gradually, through exploration and experimentation. Though it seems to be food for sharing, many of the dishes are barely big enough for one; perhaps going out with Geri Halliwell gives a chap a funny idea about portion control. But weirdly, our meal climaxed with an enormous pot-sticker of a main course, a slow-cooked stew of black leg chicken, sugar snaps and carrots that could easily have fed four. It involved a great deal of fossicking around by our waitress, who reverently offered up the tastiest slivers of meat for our delectation. That she was obliged to take her shoes off and perch tableside to do so only increased our feeling of pampered discomfort.

Uniquely for an expensive London restaurant, Sake No Hana doesn't have a wine list; instead, the sommelier guides you through an exhaustive menu of sakes, many of which cost upward of £100. If it all sounds a bit decadent, that's because, as you're probably picking up, this is a restaurant that's not really aimed at the general dining public. This is somewhere to bring a visiting Hollywood star, or to squire a supermodel, and only Premiership footballers would use it as a venue for a convivial dinner with mates.

It's conceivable that if you ordered carefully, you could get out for less than £50 a head, but that isn't the point of Sake No Hana. Like the clubs of St James's that it looks out over, it is designed for a breed apart. And unless you have the backing of your own personal Russian oligarch, that probably doesn't include you.

Sake no Hana, 23 St James's Street, London SW1 (020-7925 8988)

Food fourstar
Ambience threestar
Service fourstar

Dinner for two with sake around £180

Side Orders: Turning Japanese

By Madeleine Lim

Zuma

At around £80 per head without drinks, it's expensive – but you're paying for the celebrity-driven atmosphere as well as the excellent modern Japanese food; try the beef tataki and spider crab sushi rolls.

5 Raphael St, London, SW7(020-7584 1010)

Umu

Meltingly fresh sashimi and silky Wagyu beef with wasabi are two of the specialities in this elegant Michelinstarred Japanese. Prices are sky-high; a more painless option is a set lunch from £22.

14-16 Bruton Place, London W1 (020-7499 8881)

Nobu

You'll need to book ahead to get a table at what is still considered by many to be London's most glamorous restaurant. Try the black cod in miso, beef with teriyaki sauce and rock shrimp tempura.

Metropolitan Hotel, 19 Old Park Lane, London W1(020-7447 4747)

Bincho Yakitori

This new Japanese specialises in tapas-style flame-grilled dishes and skewered meats. Amazing views across the Thames and good prices, too – around £25 per head.

Oxo Tower Wharf, Bargehouse Street, London SE1 (020-7803 0858)

PROMOTED VIDEO
Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebooks
ebookPart of The Independent’s new eBook series The Great Composers
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Food & Drink

    Recruitment Genius: Car Sales Executive - Franchised Main Dealer

    £30000 - £40000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This is a great opportunity for...

    Recruitment Genius: Group Sales Manager - Field Based

    £21000 - £22000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: Located on the stunning Sandban...

    Guru Careers: Email Marketing Specialist

    £26 - 35k (DOE): Guru Careers: An Email Marketing Specialist is needed to join...

    Recruitment Genius: Tour Drivers - UK & European

    Negotiable: Recruitment Genius: This is a fantastic opportunity to join a is a...

    Day In a Page

    Isis hostage crisis: The prisoner swap has only one purpose for the militants - recognition its Islamic State exists and that foreign nations acknowledge its power

    Isis hostage crisis

    The prisoner swap has only one purpose for the militants - recognition its Islamic State exists and that foreign nations acknowledge its power, says Robert Fisk
    Missing salvage expert who found $50m of sunken treasure before disappearing, tracked down at last

    The runaway buccaneers and the ship full of gold

    Salvage expert Tommy Thompson found sunken treasure worth millions. Then he vanished... until now
    Homeless Veterans appeal: ‘If you’re hard on the world you are hard on yourself’

    Homeless Veterans appeal: ‘If you’re hard on the world you are hard on yourself’

    Maverick artist Grayson Perry backs our campaign
    Assisted Dying Bill: I want to be able to decide about my own death - I want to have control of my life

    Assisted Dying Bill: 'I want control of my life'

    This week the Assisted Dying Bill is debated in the Lords. Virginia Ironside, who has already made plans for her own self-deliverance, argues that it's time we allowed people a humane, compassionate death
    Move over, kale - cabbage is the new rising star

    Cabbage is king again

    Sophie Morris banishes thoughts of soggy school dinners and turns over a new leaf
    11 best winter skin treats

    Give your moisturiser a helping hand: 11 best winter skin treats

    Get an extra boost of nourishment from one of these hard-working products
    Paul Scholes column: The more Jose Mourinho attempts to influence match officials, the more they are likely to ignore him

    Paul Scholes column

    The more Jose Mourinho attempts to influence match officials, the more they are likely to ignore him
    Frank Warren column: No cigar, but pots of money: here come the Cubans

    Frank Warren's Ringside

    No cigar, but pots of money: here come the Cubans
    Isis hostage crisis: Militant group stands strong as its numerous enemies fail to find a common plan to defeat it

    Isis stands strong as its numerous enemies fail to find a common plan to defeat it

    The jihadis are being squeezed militarily and economically, but there is no sign of an implosion, says Patrick Cockburn
    Virtual reality thrusts viewers into the frontline of global events - and puts film-goers at the heart of the action

    Virtual reality: Seeing is believing

    Virtual reality thrusts viewers into the frontline of global events - and puts film-goers at the heart of the action
    Homeless Veterans appeal: MP says Coalition ‘not doing enough’

    Homeless Veterans appeal

    MP says Coalition ‘not doing enough’ to help
    Larry David, Steve Coogan and other comedians share stories of depression in new documentary

    Comedians share stories of depression

    The director of the new documentary, Kevin Pollak, tells Jessica Barrett how he got them to talk
    Has The Archers lost the plot with it's spicy storylines?

    Has The Archers lost the plot?

    A growing number of listeners are voicing their discontent over the rural soap's spicy storylines; so loudly that even the BBC's director-general seems worried, says Simon Kelner
    English Heritage adds 14 post-war office buildings to its protected lists

    14 office buildings added to protected lists

    Christopher Beanland explores the underrated appeal of these palaces of pen-pushing
    Human skull discovery in Israel proves humans lived side-by-side with Neanderthals

    Human skull discovery in Israel proves humans lived side-by-side with Neanderthals

    Scientists unearthed the cranial fragments from Manot Cave in West Galilee