Second helpings: Other newly Michelin-starred restaurants
Hakkasan 8 Hanway Place - Gordon Ramsay at Claridge's - Restaurant Sat Bains Hotel des Clos
Sunday 23 February 2003
Hakkasan 8 Hanway Place, London W1, tel: 020 7927 7000 Yes, it is pricey, noisy, in a grungy location, and they make it difficult to get a table at the time you want. But there is no doubt in my mind that Hakkasan is the finest Chinese restaurant in Britain. Alan Yau has put together an eatery of great style and modernity. Chef Tong Chee Hwee brings elegance and refinement to classic and updated Cantonese dishes; and the dim sum lunch is a treasure.
Gordon Ramsay at Claridge's 55 Brook Street, London W1, tel: 020 7499 0099 When Ramsay took over the Claridge's restaurant, it became obvious that hotel dining-rooms in this town would never be the same again. The whole package glows, from the golden Art Deco elegance and fur-trimmed lamps of the stately room to the millions of minions bringing chef Mark Sargeant's silkily assured translations of Cuisine Ramsay, from a delicate froth of white onion veloute to a real show-off terrine of foie gras and smoked duck.
Restaurant Sat Bains Hotel des Clos, Old Lenton Lane, Nottingham, tel: 0115 986 6566 This family-owned hotel on the banks of the Trent was nearly wiped out by flooding in 2000. Amazingly, the restaurant went on to win Nottingham's first ever Michelin star. Winner of the 1999 Roux Scholarship, chef Sat Bains's cooking is full of French-influenced class – proof of the pudding being his Anjou pigeon with braised pigeon dumpling and boudin noir croustillant.
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