Second helpings: Three great sausages
Inn on the Green The Old Cricket Common, Cookham Dean, Berkshire - Brasserie Roux Sofitel St James, 8 Pall Mall, London SW1 - The Dorchester Grill Room 53 Park Lane, London W1
Sunday 16 February 2003
Boudin Blanc at Inn on the Green The Old Cricket Common, Cookham Dean, Berkshire, tel: 01628 482 638 Garry Hollihead of the Embassy in London makes the best boudin blanc in captivity – a gorgeous, rich white meat sausage, as light as a mousseline. So refined is it that it has been relocated to the country's newest boutique hotel, Inn on the Green, a tranquil retreat recently taken over by Hollihead and Embassy partner Mark Fuller, where it is served with Alsace bacon, port onion jus and buttered spinach.
Andouillette at Brasserie Roux Sofitel St James, 8 Pall Mall, London SW1, tel: 020 7968 2900 Not for the faint of heart or stomach, the andouillette is a large blimp of a sausage filled with pig's intestines and laced with an indelicate smell of toilets. It's an acquired taste that you can acquire at this upmarket bistro, served up with a lush mustard sauce. Too scared? Go for the Toulouse sausage, which smells perfectly normal.
Black Pudding at The Dorchester Grill Room 53 Park Lane, London W1, tel: 020 7317 6336 Clonakilty is to black pudding what Beluga is to caviar. Made by butcher Edward Twomey in west Cork to a recipe from the 1880s, it is a subtle, lightly spicy thing of beauty. It's one of three sausages (oh, bliss) on the full and proper English breakfast in the Grill Room, along with Clonakilty white pudding and Denham Estate pork sausages made from rare-breed British Lop pigs to chef Henry Brosi's own recipe.
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