Taman Gang

I am always sceptical about trendy places that appear to be more of a rendezvous than a restaurant, and usually for good reason, but this is not the case at Taman Gang. In the same family as the Notting Hill Brasserie, The Ebury and The Waterway (see other entries in this guide), this subterranean restaurant and bar near Marble Arch is an eye-opener for me. The understated entrance belies the fantastic interior, the sheer style of the place and the seriousness of chef Rikki Pang’s stellar pan-Asian fusion cuisine.

This is a split-level designer statement, with marble alcoves, muted shades, dramatic ceiling lights and innovative bricked-in ice buckets to chill that bottle or two of Dom Perignon. These details all synch with the laid-back music coming from the sound system. “Who wants to eat here?” you might say, having just sipped one of their signature cocktails, watching the in-crowd come and go.

But Pang’s food is worth the visit alone. An inspirational dim sum consisting of superlative duck spring roll – crispy and truly aromatic – date and water chestnut gyoza with spiced red vinegar (a revelation), beef and foie gras gyoza with nameko mushrooms and teriyaki dressing (pure gluttony!), scallop and prawn dumplings with superior soy hinted at the delights ahead.

Pang, who hails from Singapore, produces even more gems, which display a lightness of touch, such as the rock shrimp tempura with spicy mayonnaise and traditional dipping sauce, delicately hand-cut okra and asparagus inside-out maki rolls with soy and kinaki wasabi, rib of beef Bulgogi with kim chee and spiced yoghurt, served pink and with an exquisite texture, baked black cod with miso, and the list goes on. No matter what the dish, expect seamless presentation and food that has had time and love put into its preparation.

But you are not quite done here until you have sampled Pang’s desserts, such as the ones we tried. Warm chocolate pudding with green tea ice cream, mochi vanilla and honeycomb ice cream (made with real honeycomb) and an original layered banana cake with mirin ice cream. Maybe I shouldn’t be so sceptical about trendy-looking places, after all you can never tell just how the food’s going to turn out.

SELECTED SIGNATURE PAIRINGS

Taman Gang assorted dim sum; paired with Gallo, Laguna Vineyards Chardonnay Russian River Valley

Rock shrimp tempura with spicy mayonnaise and traditional dipping sauce; paired with Gallo, Sonoma County Chardonnay

Rib of beef bulgogi with kim chee crushed aubergine and spiced yoghurt; paired with Gallo, Frei Ranch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Creek Valley

To find out more about Gallo Family Vineyards wine visit www.gallofamily.co.uk.

Interesting? Click here to explore further