The Dispensary

It’s the end of another working week in the City and what better place to enjoy good food and drink than the sprawling Victorian town house that is The Dispensary? Chef patron Dave Cambridge is not only a prodigious chef but also an astute manager. His support includes his partner, Annie Smith, his close friend and bar manager, Justin Smith (no relation), and a staff whose warmth creates a family- like atmosphere that guarantees your enjoyment of great food at great prices in a wonderful ambience.

High ceilings, the original wrought-iron posts and balustrades, including a sexy spiral staircase leading up to the fine dining gallery, and functional, wooden tables and chairs in the lower-level bar area, determine the tone and nature of this up-and-coming gastro-pub.

Cambridge is passionate and serious about what he puts on the plate. On the very simple but enterprising menu, he offers some excellent starters, which are varied enough to satisfy most tastes. The generous roulade of goats’ cheese and sweet, almost caramelised, peppers is quite sensational, as is the crayfish salad with lemon and Marie Rose sauce.

As for the mains, it’s a tough choice. The confit of crispy duck with chilli and soy glaze and stir-fry vegetable noodles demonstrates Cambridge’s willingness to experiment with different cuisines – and with more than a modicum of success. My dining companion’s Asian and she’s delighted with this rendition.

I really fancy the fillet of lamb with herb gnocchi and mustard cream and am also intrigued by one of the sides: homemade chunky chips, which, regardless of mains, I must have. Smith suggests a compromise: an up-tempo “fish and chips”, the chips plus Cambridge’s signature pan-seared wild sea bass in a seafood broth (in essence, bouillabaisse à la Cambridge). This is excellent – the fish has a crispy skin and flaky texture – and all the more enjoyable because of the chunky chips, which are unusually delicious.

And then, for me, it’s a choice of sweet temptations. The puddings are dispensed with much sweetness and light, especially the homemade honeycomb ice cream and the best of the lemon curds, a scrumptiously citrussy lemon curd parfait – perfect.

As William Bullein opined: “A good kitchen is a good apothecary’s shop.”

SELECTED SIGNATURE DISHES

Scallops millefeuille with herb beurre blanc; paired with Gallo, Coastal Vineyards Pinot Gris

Pan-seared wild sea bass in a seafood broth; paired with Gallo, Laguna Vineyards Chardonnay Russian River Valley

Best end of lamb with garlic mash and baby vegetables in a red wine jus; paired with Gallo, Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon

To find out more about Gallo Family Vineyards wine visit www.gallofamily.co.uk.

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