The Regency Restaurant

Right on the sea front, opposite the now dilapidated West Pier, is Brighton’s oldest and most famous seafood restaurant. The Regency has been offering up locally caught fresh fish since 1930. It has both the classic fish and chip feel with an added “posh” factor, lent by its regency architecture. From the cream-coloured, high-pillared walls with large, bright windows to the swooping chandeliers and goldfish bowl lights above the bar, this elegant scene is far from your normal chippie. Despite this, the unpretentious food served up by the indomitable Portuguese chef Manuel Da Costa, the hustle and bustle of the packed main room and the delightful staff, create a relaxed and friendly atmosphere.

The crowd is a mix of anyone and everyone who enjoys good, easy food – anyone from families to on-the-go couples to big shots like Julio Iglesias, Gordon Ramsay and Antony Worrall Thompson. The menu has the typical crowd pleasers, alongside some more unusual offerings. Fresh scallops arrived to start, perfect in texture and with just the right amount of garlic. I followed this with the Regency seafood spaghetti (a huge plate of pasta, big fat mussels and succulent prawns in a sweet tomato sauce), which unfortunately defeated me, much to the chagrin of our very funny host, owner Roberto Savvides, who gave me a thorough telling off! Luckily for me I had a very hungry partner to take over.

Despite my delicious main, the star attraction at the Regency is undoubtedly the fish. My dining companion’s choice, cod and chips, was “fantastic” and apparently “lives up to its reputation as the best cod in Brighton”. Massive portions of fluffy white, exceptionally fresh fish were coated with just the right amount of perfect crisp batter (not drowning in it as you often find these days) and accompanied by flawless chunky chips – you really couldn’t ask for better.

The list of puddings put a wicked smile on my face – all the classic naughties were there – apple pie, profiteroles, treacle pudding, and tiramisu. After much deliberation we settled on the banoffi pie (not that I had any room left, but still I couldn’t resist!). Beautifully presented, with heaps of fresh cream, it was another huge serving. Luckily this time, however, and much to Savvides’s delight, we actually managed to finish it off.

SELECTED SIGNATURE PAIRINGS

Extravaganza shellfish platter: whole lobster thermidor, oysters Parmigiana, scallops in garlic, mussels in wine, king prawns in garlic; paired with Gallo, Coastal Vineyard Pinot Gris

Whole sea bream in olive oil and herbs; paired with Gallo, Sonoma County Chardonnay

Special catch: grilled swordfish steak served with green peppercorn sauce; paired with Gallo, Sonoma County Chardonnay

To find out more about Gallo Family Vineyards wine visit www.gallofamily.co.uk.

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