Wine box

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Cartlidge and Browne Zinfandel 1990, pounds 3.99, Waitrose. Aromatic, raspberryish juiciness from California's native red grape.

1991 St Veran, Jacques Depagneux, pounds 5.55, Waitrose. An exceptionally ripe, richly concentrated and honeyed white burgundy.

Tesco International Winemaker Rueda 1991, pounds 3.49. This slightly nutty, soft dry white from northern Spain is still the best of the Lurton brothers' 'flying wines'.

Goundrey Estate Windy Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 1988, pounds 6.99, Asda. From Western Australia's remote Lower Great Southern district, an elegant, claret-like cabernet, combining intense Australian fruit flavour with French backbone finesse.

1991 Vega de Moriz, Tinto Joven, Valdepenas, pounds 2.69, Oddbins. Vibrantly fruity, affordable, soft Spanish red.

1990 Crozes Hermitage, Louis Belle, pounds 6.99, Oddbins. Classic, new-wave, succulently rich and spicy Crozes.