Wines of the week
Saturday 01 August 1992
Sauvignon apart, another of the great summer wines is Portugal's vinho verde - in Portugal. Too often it arrives here so saccharine-sweet that it loses its zip. Not Asda's Dry Vinho Verde. At 9 per cent alcohol, it is ultra-light, and the fruit so dry and refreshing, you feel as though you are crunching slightly under-ripe grapes, which then explode like fermenting sherbet lemons in the mouth. Recommended for hot days and heavy thirsts. Last month I mentioned the unusual 1991 Redwood Valley Chardonnay from New Zealand. Now in at Wine Rack and Bottoms Up, pounds 8.99, its pungent, zesty tropical fruit aromas are given added complexity by a touch of 'noble rot', which just goes to show that the French have no monopoly over things seriously and nobly rotten.
Diving in at the deep end is no excuse for shirking the style stakes
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