Food: Bites - Caroline Stacey's guide to eating in the smartest metropolitan hotels

Leeds Brasserie Forty Four 44 The Calls, Leeds (0113 2343232). Mon-Fri lunch and dinner, Sat lunch. 42 The Calls is a hotel in a converted mill in Leeds' spruced up riverside warehouse area. The cooking from here and its more serious next-door sibling Pool Court at 42 are as close to in-house catering comes without being officially connected, and as smartly plain as the bedrooms. Dishes are a well-adjusted selection from around the world; prices extremely fair: lunch, pounds 9.75 for two courses, or a pounds 5 main course, salad and coffee deal. Or try Whitby crab with Japanese horseradish, sweet peppers and lime juice; calf's liver, crisp polenta, pancetta and onion gravy; Bakewell tart with clotted cream and strawberry sauce for around pounds 22, for fullest proof.

Manchester Malmaison Hotel Piccadilly, Manchester (0161-278 1000). Daily breakfast, lunch and dinner. The latest place to stay and eat in Manchester has a chef from Mash & Air in its brasserie. The menu doesn't strive for originality, with moules marinieres, fishcakes (pounds 9.50), liver and bacon (pounds 10.50), creme brulee or citron tart. But such confident simplicity makes it a popular port of call for business diners as well as residents of the hip hotel in a converted warehouse. pounds 20 or so for three courses without drink.

London The Room at The Halcyon Halcyon Hotel, 129 Holland Park Avenue, London W11 (0171-221 5411). Mon-Fri, Sun lunch, dinner daily. Discreet showbiz billet and lunch escape route for BBCniks has a restaurant beside a sunken patio - one of the hottest spots for alfresco lunching and brunching. Dinner at pounds 35 for two courses, pounds 43 for three, is not what the licence payers want to hear; lunch for pounds 18.50, pounds 23.50 should distress us less. Deceptively simple dishes such as grilled John Dory with tapenade and tomato fondu from Nico Ladenis-trained Martin Hadden, who also keeps a vegetarian clientele happy with their own menu, but not with lower prices.

Stefano Cavallini Restaurant The Halkin, 5 Halkin Street, London SW1 (0171-333 1234). Mon-Fri lunch, dinner daily. The chef earns top billing at this Belgravia hotel. Waiters wear Armani, and though neither the building nor the cooking are flashy, the combination suits the fashion sorority and a Euro crowd. Plates come dressed with Italian cooking at its most haute and modern (perfect risotto spread thinly). pounds 55 for a five-course set menu, pounds 60 from the carte, although lunch, topped and tailed, is pounds 25. Puddings such as pear poached in black pepper with Parmesan are refreshing; espresso is the strongest in London.

Edinburgh Hadrian's The Balmoral Hotel, 2 North Bridge, Edinburgh (0131- 557 5000). Daily breakfast, lunch and dinner. In contrast to the splendidly old-fashioned Balmoral, and in keeping with Sir Rocco Forte's philosophy that hotel restaurants should exert their own identity. The hotel is the first UK salvo in Forte's comeback, the restaurant is completely contemporary (wood floors, pistachio walls, sculpture) and updates the auld alliance with modern Scottish and French food (poached Tay salmon with sorrel and fromage frais; rump of Scottish lamb with Provencal garnish) that also cuts a dash. A la carte, with three courses just over pounds 20.

Cheltenham Le Petit Blanc The Queen's Hotel, The Promenade, Cheltenham (01242 266800). Daily noon- 11pm. Separate from the early Victorian hotel (although residents can get in through a back corridor), this Raymond Blanc diffusion brasserie is contrastingly modern. From a long, appetising and accessible menu, the Mediterranean is a common thread (roast lamb Provencale with fondant potato, pounds 12.75) with forays

in many other directions: duck breast with honey, five-spice and duck confit spring roll, pounds 12.75. Two-course lunch or early evening dinner is pounds 12, pounds 14 for three. Children are actively encouraged

Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebooks
ebookA delicious collection of 50 meaty main courses
News
news
Sport
Lewis Hamilton with the Santander trophy after winning last year’s British Grand Prix
F1It's the race organisers who are to blame, apparently
News
peopleFormer Disney CEO isn't going to win any fans with this quote
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs General

    Recruitment Genius: Web Developer - Junior / Mid Weight

    £15000 - £25000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: To support their continued grow...

    Recruitment Genius: Marketing Data Specialist

    £22000 - £25000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: They are the go-to company for ...

    Recruitment Genius: Search Marketing Specialist - PPC / SEO

    Negotiable: Recruitment Genius: This is an opportunity to join the UK's leadin...

    Recruitment Genius: Sales Administrator

    Negotiable: Recruitment Genius: This caravan dealership are currently recruiti...

    Day In a Page

    Is this the future of flying: battery-powered planes made of plastic, and without flight decks?

    Is this the future of flying?

    Battery-powered planes made of plastic, and without flight decks
    Isis are barbarians – but the Caliphate is a dream at the heart of all Muslim traditions

    Isis are barbarians

    but the Caliphate is an ancient Muslim ideal
    The Brink's-Mat curse strikes again: three tons of stolen gold that brought only grief

    Curse of Brink's Mat strikes again

    Death of John 'Goldfinger' Palmer the latest killing related to 1983 heist
    Greece debt crisis: 'The ministers talk to us about miracles' – why Greeks are cynical ahead of the bailout referendum

    'The ministers talk to us about miracles'

    Why Greeks are cynical ahead of the bailout referendum
    Call of the wild: How science is learning to decode the way animals communicate

    Call of the wild

    How science is learning to decode the way animals communicate
    Greece debt crisis: What happened to democracy when it’s a case of 'Vote Yes or else'?

    'The economic collapse has happened. What is at risk now is democracy...'

    If it doesn’t work in Europe, how is it supposed to work in India or the Middle East, asks Robert Fisk
    The science of swearing: What lies behind the use of four-letter words?

    The science of swearing

    What lies behind the use of four-letter words?
    The Real Stories of Migrant Britain: Clive fled from Zimbabwe - now it won't have him back

    The Real Stories of Migrant Britain

    Clive fled from Zimbabwe - now it won’t have him back
    Africa on the menu: Three foodie friends want to popularise dishes from the continent

    Africa on the menu

    Three foodie friends want to popularise dishes from the hot new continent
    Donna Karan is stepping down after 30 years - so who will fill the DKNY creator's boots?

    Who will fill Donna Karan's boots?

    The designer is stepping down as Chief Designer of DKNY after 30 years. Alexander Fury looks back at the career of 'America's Chanel'
    10 best statement lightbulbs

    10 best statement lightbulbs

    Dare to bare with some out-of-the-ordinary illumination
    Wimbledon 2015: Heather Watson - 'I had Serena's poster on my wall – now I'm playing her'

    Heather Watson: 'I had Serena's poster on my wall – now I'm playing her'

    Briton pumped up for dream meeting with world No 1
    Wimbledon 2015: Nick Bollettieri - It's time for big John Isner to produce the goods to go with his thumping serve

    Nick Bollettieri's Wimbledon Files

    It's time for big John Isner to produce the goods to go with his thumping serve
    Dustin Brown: Who is the tennis player who knocked Rafael Nadal out of Wimbeldon 2015?

    Dustin Brown

    Who is the German player that knocked Nadal out of Wimbeldon 2015?
    Ashes 2015: Damien Martyn - 'England are fired up again, just like in 2005...'

    Damien Martyn: 'England are fired up again, just like in 2005...'

    Australian veteran of that Ashes series, believes the hosts' may become unstoppable if they win the first Test